THEY’RE rebuilding the ramparts of an old castle near Swindon. Wow, that sounds interesting. I didn’t think Swindon had any castles. Where is it then? “Chiseldon way, ten minutes down the road,” said the news editor of the Swindon Evening Advertiser, before adding “easy enough to find.”

Embarrassingly, I spent the next hour or so scouring the countryside south of Swindon in a ropey blue Ford Escort for the battlements of some medieval style fortification, perhaps with the remnants of a portcullis or drawbridge.

After eventually heading up some hilly, stony rural lane which came to an abrupt halt in the middle of virtually nowhere I found myself staring at a vast, eerie heap of earth – not an outer bailey, or even an inner bailey, in sight.

This, 37 years ago – and having only recently arrived in Swindon – was my introduction to Barbury Castle.

Initial disappointment vaporised following a swift history lesson courtesy of the archaeologist in charge of the restoration, Bill Ford. Not that I let on that I didn’t haven’t a clue about this or any Iron Age fortresses, mind.

Over the years Barbury Castle has become a source of fascination, a place of contemplation, a breezy, bustle-free area of dog walking exploits, a vantage point with virtually unparalled views of the surrounding countryside.

And if you are training for a marathon it is a spot you might even be daft enough to try and run to.

Oozing atmosphere, it has been invaded by Celtic tribes, slave traders, treasure hunters, cattle rustlers, Roman soldiers, American GIs, arsonists, vandals, worshippers of pagan gods – and I haven’t even mentioned King Kenrick and his cut-throat army of rampaging Saxons.

Erica was buried in her boots within a slingshot of the battlements around 1,300 years ago. For hundreds of years Barbury Castle was the heart of a thriving Iron Age community. During World War Two, artillery gunners took potshots at enemy aircraft from its lofty, windswept ramparts.

Peering at Swindon from the North Wessex Downs, what is arguably the borough’s most important scheduled ancient monument is again in the news, the centre of another controversy (see panel).

But when and how did this mighty edifice, this immense structure, come to be? Spectacularly located just off one of the UK’s most important ancient routes, the 5,000 year-old Ridgeway, Barbury Castle first began to take shape around 2,500 years ago.

We can only imagine the colossal effort it must have taken – with the use of antlers as digging tools – to erect that pair of steep defensive earth ramparts and ditches that enclose the 12-acre fortress. You can only truly appreciate it by walking around it.

Its chalky ramparts – or banks – would have been bright white when first constructed, a glaring landmark for miles around, perhaps a status symbol.

Its purposes? A settlement, a gathering place and a defence for the Britons who built it to protect themselves from hostile tribes. A 1998 month-long survey found evidence of 40 hut circles from 400BC, suggesting it was a key Iron Age stronghold/settlement.

When the Romans invaded Briton in 43AD they made their way along the Ridgeway, trampling west over a string of Iron Age fortresses including Barbury. There is no evidence of fighting but there are some items – a brooch, shards of pottery – revealing Roman occupation. According to Mark Bowden, who led the 1998 survey, this era may well have seen Barbury targeted by slave raiding parties from other tribes to supply the Roman Republic’s demand. Mind you, the Barbury lads were probably off doing the same thing in Wales!

When the Romans quit Briton around 350 years later, the Saxons moved in and Barbury Castle – or adjoining countryside – was said to have been the site of a mighty battle, known either as the Battle of Barbury, Beran Byrig or Beranburh in the year 556.

The Anglo-Saxon Chronicle for that year says: “Cuthwin (also known as Kenrick) and Ceawlin (his son) fought with (which means against) the Britons at Barbury Castle.” The Saxon triumph helped shove the Britons further west, ending their age-old occupation of the area.

Some 269 years later Barbury Castle is reckoned to have been a rallying point for the men of Wessex who traipsed from all corners of the region to fight an invading army from Mercia (the Midlands.) The river – Wroughton Brook or the River Ray – ran “red with gore,” according to one account. Wessex won The Battle of Ellendune, thought to have been fought either at Wroughton or land adjoining what is now Swindon’s Windmill Business Park.

Abandoned for centuries, Barbury Castle – courtesy of its 850ft elevation – was again at war in the 1940s when anti-aircraft guns were installed to protect the RAF base at Wroughton airfield. Three holes in the hillfort are believed to be bomb craters.

American troops wanted to bulldoze some of the ramparts for military purposes, according to rumour. But they were thwarted by a persuasive Alexander Keeler, the marmalade millionaire who re-built nearby Avebury stone circle.

It may surprise some but the castle was private property until 1972 when Wiltshire council acquired it as a country park. Naturally, a row broke out. The council had to stump up £69,000 for the 130 acres instead of £43,000 after claiming it was “gazumped.”

More squabbles ensued. The special beauty and aura of Barbury Castle would be destroyed by hordes of Swindon picnickers, ranted some. The move to build public loos positively enraged others who felt it would ruin the hillfort’s “strange ancient feel.” “I suppose the new Barbury Castle slogan will be ‘see the view and use the loo’ snorted local resident David Preddy in the Adver in 1973.

Small armies of volunteers – wielding spades rather than the battle-axes of previous armies – have on numerous occasions helped repair eroded banks and ramparts over the decades.

Managing conservational concerns while encouraging folk to venture onto the downs to savor this special spot has become an ongoing poser for Swindon Council, which now owns the site.

The phrases ‘tourist hub’ and ‘theme park’ often crop up during slanging matches over any ‘planned improvements’ for Barbury Castle. That’s because people love it and they care. Too right!

WHAT an idea… let’s get a £28,000 grant and build an Iron Age roundhouse to show visitors to Barbury Castle how our ancestors lived there 2,000 years ago.

Erected in 2006, it was a truly splendid structure – an eye catching focal point that gave us an insight and feel into the lives of our Iron Age ancestors.

You’ll never guess what? It was burnt down by arsonists a couple of years later. The local intelligentsia up to their sad old tricks again.

  • The latest castle controversy involves a plan to build one of the country’s biggest solar farms at Wroughton airfield.

    Installing 100,000 solar panels would generate power for 12,000 homes and boost the local economy.But it would also, say English Heritage, devastate the age old view from Barbury Castle – “the jewel in the crown” of this designated Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty.

  • From ‘A Description of England and Wales’, published by Newbery & Carnan in 1770: “Four miles north of Marlborough is Barbury Hill, upon the top of which (is) a castle, encompassed with a double-ditch and other fortifications. “There are several barrows in the adjacent plain, whence it is concluded that some great battle was fought there.

  • “And that this was the place called in the Saxon annals Beranbyrig where Kenrick, King of the West Saxons, and his son Ceaulin, fought the Britons in the year 556.”

  • Barbury Castle became a fortress of sorts once more in 1989 when a convoy of 300 “hippies” intent on re-staging the ancient Celtic Beltane festival there on May Day, were thwarted. Road blocks were set up in and around the Iron Age site forcing would-be festivalgoers to make do with a Celtic style knees-up on land off Pipers Way in Old Town.
  • She was buried on the slopes of Barbury Castle with her hobnail boots on. Erica, as she is now known, was discovered by workmen laying a pipe in 1985. She lived around 1,300 years ago during the Roman occupation and was probably a member of a farming community. The area is dotted with barrows – or burial mounds – which predate the castle. These were the Bronze Age Beaker People of 3,000 years ago who, as custom dictated, were buried with their beaker cups.