GOBSMACKED and awe-stricken does not come close to describing our reaction as we entered Blenheim Palace’s gate.

So amazed were we at its baroque architecture that we stood in front of the palace for 15 minutes (my mother, in true French style, likened it to Versailles) before being satisfied we’d admired every inch of its facade.

Another two minutes were spent staring at the strange yet hypnotic eyes painted above the entrance and we finally stepped into the Great Hall.

And there we were again, staring. This time at the imposing chandelier – one of Chinese artist Ai Weiwei’s installations scattered around the palace and grounds, we later learned.

Blenheim Palace was built in the early 18th Century as a gift to the 1st Duke of Marlborough, John Churchill, the military commander who led the Allied forces in the Battle of Blenheim in 1704 and claimed victory over the French in the War of the Spanish Succession (yes, out of the scores of foreign tourists we were the only French nationals).

To honour the Duke’s heroics, Queen Anne granted his family the ruined Royal Manor and park at Woodstock, along with the promise of funds to erect a house.

Blenheim is also where Winston Churchill, whose cousin was the ninth Duke of Marlborough, was born.

Ready to explore, we made our way to the Winston Churchill exhibition, featuring portraits, his most memorable quotes and achievements as well as his artwork, before being led through the room where the former PM was born.

Then came the guided tour of the famous State Rooms; each more luxurious than the next, with their rich furnishings and tapestries depicting the most glorious scenes of the Battle of Blenheim.

To our surprise, in each room, one of Wei Wei’s controversial political pieces of artwork inspired by Marlborough tradition took pride of place – including a sea of crabs and wooden chair installation. They could not have been better integrated in the period decor.

Throughout the tour, our tendency to stop and stare was not only tolerated by our guide but encouraged and wherever our gaze landed, anecdotes and explanations swiftly followed. Her knowledge of Blenheim was inexhaustible.

Left to our own devices we later explored the grounds and circled the property over and over again, only taking a short break for tea in the cafe overlooking the water terraces.

Far from holding a grudge against John Churchill for bringing our people to yield we thanked our ancestors for admitting defeat and allowing Blenheim to be erected in all its splendour. All’s well that ends well. MARION SAUVEBOIS

  • Bowood House, near Calne, will be twinkling with festive cheer next week for its three-day Christmas Extravaganza, which begins on Wednesday (Dec 3).
    With just three weeks of Christmas shopping remaining, the home of the descendants of the 1st Earl of Shelburne and the 1st Marquess of Lansdowne since 1754 will provide a captivating, stylish yet relaxed antidote to the seasonal frenzy with its brand of retail therapy, drawing together luxury giftware and inspirational ideas to lift Christmas presents and preparations from the standard to the stellar.
    On Wednesday, drinks and canapés will greet visitors at a ticketed preview event – from 4pm to 8pm and priced at £15 per person. The Extravaganza will then run from 10am to 8pm on the Thursday and from 10am to 3pm on the Friday with an entry price on those days of £6 per person (advance) or £8 per person on the day).
    For more info on the Extravaganza, call 01249 812102 or e-mail reception@bowood.org.