All hail the Revolution (From Swindon Advertiser)

All hail the Revolution

11:56am Thursday 17th November 2011 in Reviews

Barrie Hudson discovers more than just vodka on the menu at a town centre bar

EAT AT:

REVOLUTION, 51-53 Bridge Street, Swindon SN1 1BL.

Tel: 01793 539931. www.revolution-bars.co.uk/swindon.

Food served:

Monday to Saturday 11.30am to 7pm (Saturdays 8pm), Sunday noon to 6pm. Late night pizza menu 6pm until late. Children under 18 must leave by 7pm.

REVOLUTION in Bridge Street recently announced an ambitious plan to increase food sales by 25 per cent in six months.

The bar, part of a national chain of 66 that was founded in Manchester 15 years ago and perhaps best known for its 30 flavours of vodka infusion, has a new menu. It features what it calls British classics with a modern twist and a selection of international dishes.

Judging by the food we tried during a recent weekday lunchtime visit, the bar is on to a winner.

In keeping with the Russian revolutionary theme, much of the decor has a vintage appearance. Some of the heavy wooden tables, for example, wouldn’t look out of place in old photographs of Lenin, Trotsky and their mates discussing tractor production in the Urals or muttering: “Watch out for that Stalin, I reckon he’s a wrong ‘un.”

Thanks to the high ceiling and big windows, the overall atmosphere is bright and airy, and Revolution filled rapidly with diners while we were there.

I chose a very tasty house speciality called the Revolution Vodka Burger (£8.95), which consisted of six ounces of beef and so many fixtures and fittings that the whole thing had to be held together with a wooden spike big enough to make Dracula wince.

There were jalapeno peppers, onion rings, Monterey Jack cheese and the bar’s own vodka chilli salsa, not to mention a side of crispy fries and another of coleslaw.

The attention to detail, and to making the most of every ingredient, was impressive. Unlike some bar chains, there was no hint here of: “Never mind the quality, feel the width.”

My partner ordered Pepper Steak Rosti (£7.95) – strips of steak in a peppercorn sauce laid over lightly fried grated sweet potato and Maris Pipers, served with a well-dressed salad.

Other main courses range from goats cheese and apricot Wellington (£9.95) to eight ounce rump steaks (£10.95), and my burger was one of a range of eight. There are also pizzas starting at £7.25, toasties at £4.95, and sandwiches and wraps at £5.95, not to mention a generous selection of starters and desserts.

Thanks to a special Monday 50 per cent-off deal, our bill came to a little over £12, including a couple of soft drinks. Even had we paid full price, we would have left very happy indeed.