Persuaded by a pal, STEPHEN DAVY-OSBORNE heads into the wilds of Wiltshire... for pizza.

And he doesn’t regret a single mouthful

YOU simply have to try their pizzas, they’re amazing”, was how the WhatsApp message from a good friend of mine began when tabling the idea of an evening get-together at Mother & Wild in Corsham.

“I’m sure they are, but why would I drive all the way from Swindon to Corsham just for pizza?” was how I replied in my head, before sending a smiley emoji and agreeing that it sounded like a plan to me.

To be fair to her, this is the woman who discovered Pie Night at the Biddestone Arms (may it rest in peace) which led to a monthly pilgrimage of Adver staff bundling into each other’s cars for a trip down the M4 for all-you-can-eat-pie. So part of me did wonder whether she had discovered ‘the next big thing’.

Describing itself as a neighbourhood café, restaurant and bar, Mother & Wild proudly cooks food that it loves.

“We’re not into pretentious swipes, foams or any of that rubbish, just hearty food with robust flavours,” states their homepage that I’d hastily Googled following her invitation, wondering what awaited me. “We have a range of small plates/British tapas that change with the seasons which are great to share.”

Okay, so I don’t have to have pizza if I don’t want to – that’s a good start at least.

But it’s clear that pizza is at the heart of this new start-up restaurant, nestled on Corsham’s beautiful picture-postcard-perfect High Street, just opposite the grand Methuen Arms.

With an attractive courtyard to the rear, it is an idyllic spot for a dash of al fresco dining.

Unfortunately on the evening we went, many others had already had this idea, so we were seated inside. But with a comfy table by the window this was far from being a problem. If anything, it made me want to return during the winter months when I bet this spot is proper cosy.

A bowl of the biggest olives I have possibly ever seen, dressed with crumbled feta, was ordered while we made our mind up on the menu, stumbling at the first hurdle of starters.

Among the delights on offer were sourdough breadsticks with garlic mayonnaise (£4), pea and ham soup with toasted sourdough (£6), and seared scallops, celeriac puree, fresh peas and pancetta (£9).

We eventually agreed on a warming bowl of beef meatballs in tomato salsa verde (£6), crispy belly pork, apple puree, fennel, caper and parsley (£6) and bresaola, ewe’s curd, pine nuts, rocket and balsamic (£7). Paired with our olives this small selection of tapas really got us into the European spirit — and I have to confess, I was now properly in the mood for pizza. Especially so after hearing that the Mother & Wild’s chefs leave their sourdough to prove for 36 hours, before cooking, Neapolitan style, at extreme heat in a wood-fired brick oven.

My dining companions were (unsurprisingly!) both onboard the pizza train, with one choosing anchovies, olives, mozzarella and parsley (£8), and the other going for air dried blackcombe ham, coppa, tomato, mozzarella and rocket (£10).

I, meanwhile, chose the pancetta, mushroom, truffle and mozzarella (£10), and was to become the envy of both of them when the pizzas arrived. Not that either of them were disappointed with their own pizzas, but the flavour combination on my plate was just spot on. The pancetta was delightfully crisp, and the mushrooms paired with the truffle were simply delicious.

The sourdough base was a really nice touch too. Unlike brioche buns — which seem to have been putting the humble burger bun out of business up and down the country in every pub and restaurant going — sourdough is still quite an unusual pizza base, and made for quite a pleasant change. It was baked to perfection, nicely crisp on the bottom but light and fluffy on top.

We did each remark that we expected to be hungrier than we actually were when we finished, as the pizzas are smaller than your average Pizza Express offering, but we were all more than comfortably satisfied. And the amount of flavour the chefs managed to squeeze in was just incredible.

We had heard the desert menu was every bit as tempting as the mains, so we thought we ought to give it a quick look-over, little realising that it would prove to be the hardest decision of the whole evening.

We were forced to choose from favourites such as bread and butter pudding with summer berries and clotted cream (£5.50), lemon custard tart, raspberry compote and crème fraiche (£6) and baked vanilla cheesecake, strawberries and mint (£6).

I was torn. Well and truly torn. I was desperate to try the bread and butter pudding, but with the light summer air outside I was also deeply tempted by the strawberry and raspberry Eton mess (£5.50). When I heard one of my dining companions order the Eton mess I knew I had to have the same, as daft as that logic may seem. With a pot of Earl Grey to share between us, it was the perfect end to a thoroughly enjoyable meal.