EMMA DUNN finds a new favourite restaurant in Cricklade

The Red Lion

74 High Street,

Cricklade SN6 6DD.

Tel: 01793 750776

Open: 12pm to 2.30pm and 6.30pm to 9pm/9.30pm Tel no and website

“WE’RE going to have to ask them,” I said to my boyfriend as we walked around the bar area in the Red Lion.

The award-winning pub in Cricklade was heaving with customers when we walked in on Friday night, and luckily we had booked ahead.

There was just one problem though. Where was the restaurant?

We made our way to the bar where Scott suggested we could coolly mention we were booked in at the restaurant while we ordered drinks.

He went for a pint called Tricerahops (£2.80), which was from the pub’s own brewery, before telling them we had booked for dinner.

And with those magic words, we were shown the way (it was actually just a few steps around the corner).

The pub itself has a great traditional atmosphere, with a whole collection of bric-a-brac around the bar area. The restaurant has a warm homely feel, and there were already a few couples and families enjoying dinner when we arrived.

The menu promised a host of mouth-watering dishes, and I was tempted by the shepherd’s pie.

But deciding that venison would probably be a better test of the chef’s abilities, I chose the loin of locally shot venison (£12.50), while Scott went for the homemade beef burger with triple cooked chips (£12.50).

Although I haven’t strictly dined at the Red Lion before, this wasn’t the first time I’d been there.

While I couldn’t have told you the way to the restaurant, I could tell you exactly how the triple-cooked chips Scott had ordered were made, having previously interviewed the chef on his technique for National Chip Week. It’s the same method Heston Blumenthal uses.

When the chips arrived at our table, they were just as good as they’d tasted the day I watched them being cooked in the kitchen. Perfectly golden, crisp on the outside yet fluffy on the inside, and with mouth-watering crunchy bits where the ends had broken up.

There’s no denying it – Red Lion chips are the definition of the perfect chip, and I would challenge anyone to make better.

The rest of the meal was stunning too.

The venison was perfectly presented – it wouldn’t have looked out of place in a five star hotel.

The meat was cooked rarer than I would usually choose, but it was delicious and I think it may have converted me from my usual request for ‘medium’.

It came with pomme anna potato, roast salsify, rape florets and parsnips, which were just as delicious. The portion size wasn’t the biggest but, luckily for me, Scott was struggling to finish his chips.

He looked determined (if a little full) as he persisted with the burger topped with streaky bacon, Ogleshield cheese, and homemade tomato relish.

He also said the chips were too good to leave. So, being the kind person that I am, I helped him out, and together we demolished the lot.

Looking at our empty plates, you’d never have known we had polished off starters too.

I had gone for the local beetroot, Cerney goat’s cheese, and toasted hazelnuts (£5.95), which again was beautifully presented.

The flavours combined wonderfully, and I particularly enjoyed the sauce, which complimented the whole dish.

Scott chose the carrot and potato soup with homemade bread (£5), which he seemed to enjoy too.

All this was accompanied by a flowerpot of homemade bread, which had a strong taste of fennel, and it was so good that I didn’t want to leave the last piece behind. In fact, I wrapped it in my napkin and ate it for lunch the next day – it was just as delicious then.

With our hungry stomachs truly satisfied, we couldn’t manage pudding, but we were tempted by the sticky toffee pudding, Eton Mess and chocolate brownie.

There was also a great looking cheese board on offer, which the couple on the table next to us were enjoying.

But even if the Red Lion only served chips we’d be sure to go back time and time again.