LIZ MACKLEY gets more than she hoped for on a visit to Graze bar in Cirencester

Graze Bar brasserie and chop house 3 Gosditch Street, Cirencester GL7 2AG Tel: 01285 658957

WHEN my friend Kat and I decided to stretch our eating legs and dine out in Cirencester’s Graze Bar, we were really there for the Bath ales.

Describing itself as a brasserie and chop house I wasn’t expecting much more than bistro-style grub and a country pub atmosphere in the heart of a small market town.

But it was far more than that.

Walking into Graze Bar was like walking into your local, complete with laughter bubbling up from groups of regular drinking buddies propping up the cosy main bar.

Packed and noisy in a comfortable and intimate way, we were shown to the table by a waiter with the charm and efficiency you’d expect in some of the finest eateries in London.

It was a select menu, designed to showcase the best in the south west, but varied and choice.

Instead of the regular burger and pasta options, there were words like scallops, blue cheese, walnuts and truffle pecorino (I still don’t know what that means) all for the price of what my country pub would ask for your standard cod, chips and brew.

And that was before our waiter came back and fluently recited the specials and their accompaniments – complete with their prices – as though they had been specially selected for our personal delectation.

I chose the game terrine with apple sauce and fig and walnut toast (£7.25) to start, while Kat opted for Loch Duart salmon fishcake with lemon butter sauce (£6.50).

While we were waiting we were served with warm crusty bread and herby, sea-salted butter, just enough to whet our appetites.

The terrine was much as I expected, with an earthy taste and texture complemented by the wholesome taste of walnut toast.

Kat also enjoyed the fishcake, which arrived swimming in a deliciously creamy lemony sauce.

For mains I dived into a pot of River Fowey mussels in Bounders cider and bacon sauce (£10.95) while Kat had lamb shoulder, autumn squashes, dumplings and kale (£15.95). We also ordered a portion of triple-cooked chips (£3.50) and sweet potato dauphinoise (£3.50) We were both hit by the tastebud explosion, loath to waste a single mouthful.

The biggest surprise however was the sweet potato dauphinoise, which fell apart in its creamy cheese sauce and would also make a delicious main course.

I had absolutely no intention of ordering dessert, knowing that the first two courses were more than enough to satisfy me. That was until our waiter introduced us to the Black Russian brownie (£6.95) as it sailed past our table to our neighbouring customers.

It was sheer marketing genius.

The rich slice of slightly warmed chocolate brownie, topped with candied walnuts and a scoop of creamy salted caramel ice cream, was simply the best pudding I have ever eaten. Kat had little to say about her sumptuous, fruity Pimms-infested Eton Mess (£6.95). When she did open her mouth to talk she was so overcome with enjoyment she simply slipped in another spoonful instead.

I think it’s safe to say we’ll be back for a second helping soon.