Marion Sauvebois chats to a team who are bringing a whole new meaning to the word ‘local’ when it comes to  giving guests a great dining experience ... after all, the  cows are only over the road... and the butcher’s not far either

MOST chefs make it their life’s mission to source fresh ingredients right on their doorstep.

Jamie Woods at The Bull Hotel in Fairford has brought this principle a tad closer to home – to the field next door and the butcher over the road, to be precise.

Eager to make use of the abundant products at their disposal, Jamie and The Bull proprietor Ian Summers have been offering a selection of hearty meals concocted from locally-sourced meats, fruit and vegetables over the past year and a half.

And now, ramping up the foodie revolution just one more notch, the pair have introduced Fairford beef to the menu – produced from cattle reared at Milton Farm, a stone’s throw away from the restaurant and prepared by butcher Andrew Butler across the street.

“This is what I wanted when I took over in October 2012,” said Ian, who trained as a chef and worked for a large catering contractor before returning to Fairford full time to manage the Arkell’s hotel.

“It was very traditional and it was in need of modernisation. I wanted to put a different slant on it. It was about being exciting with traditional dishes.

“Our food philosophy is quite simple. We wanted to provide food that was unpretentious and locally and responsibly sourced. People want to know where their food comes from. It is about quality and customers respond to that.

“It’s great dishes that you will know and recognise like a bowl of beef stew – that’s the crux of it. And we enhance these dishes with fresh specials every day.

“We started getting our lamb from Coln Saint Aldwyns, our pork is from just outside Lechlade, and fruit and vegetables come from Cirencester.

“We started serving Fairford beef just before Christmas. Our butcher is over the road and the beef comes from Milton Farm which is just a five-minute walk. You can look through the window and see the cattle grazing. Fairford beef is a facet of the food philosophy.”

Fairford cows are a mix of traditional British breeds – Angus, Hereford and Shorthorn – which graze on the meadows of the river Coln.

The meadows are in a stewardship scheme, which means they receive no artificial fertiliser and are treated to enhance the habitat for wildlife and the health of the river rather than solely for production.

The beef is only available from Andrew Butler. Anything that does not go to him goes to market with Tom.

“It’s part of that Cotswold experience,” said Andrew. “We have some fabulous suppliers around but this beef is something special. We mature it for 28 days before passing it on to Jamie at the Bull. There are no food miles or carbon footprint here – my team just walk over the market place to The Bull.”

The menu features seasonal dishes, salads and specials alongside permanent Bull classics, including beef stew, burgers, and ‘sarnies’.

Jamie, a professional chef, worked as front of house manager when Ian joined The Bull.

Over a few pints, the pair discussed the future of the restaurant and soon realised they had a common vision. Jamie was appointed head chef in July last year and set about overhauling the menu.

The quality and availability of the beef has given him plenty of inspiration for his spring dishes.

“I’ve always been a strong believer in using what’s around you,” explained the 24-year-old.

“We knew there was potential to do a lot here. It has been quite a quick transition.

“I’m always looking for new ideas. My favourite dish at the moment is the corned beef hash with homemade brown sauce. I like the quirkiness of it.

“The standard we have achieved is really good now. We want to take that standard of quality and turn it into Rosettes.”

Sustainability is also key to their gastronomic vision.

This crucial element was brought home to Ian while perusing Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall’s book, River Cottage, in which the TV chef described buying two cows and taking them to the slaughterhouse.

“He ensured no part of the animals was wasted. This was, he felt, the least he could do. He even returned home with the testicles which he proceeded to eat on toast.

“We use everything here but the testicles,” added Ian, 49.

“In the book, he says that the thought of slaughtering animals didn’t fill him with joy but he understood it was part of the process. He made sure every piece of beef was used. That’s the fairest thing he could do to the animal.

“For us it is also about being sustainable with the animal so we look at recipes which use less well known cuts, typically use much slower cooking techniques and are packed with flavour.

“We use the bones for stock and the brisket for the corned beef hash “And that’s not just for the beef but for everything – chicken and pork. We’re only just starting.”