Expecting the worst, CHRIS HUMPHREYS and his dining companion have their socks blown off at a

tucked-away hotel restaurant

ANYBODY who has travelled for business will know what I mean when I say that eating in hotels is a bit like playing restaurant roulette.

While there are certainly exceptions to the rule, the food in many establishments is a definite afterthought.

In fact, as I write this review I am sitting in one such hotel. An international chain with a good reputation, but apparently unable to distinguish between the sole of a shoe and the optimum texture of a steak judging by the meal I have just had.

So with past experience in mind, you can imagine the sense of pessimistic doom that came over me when I was told where the next outing of our trusty Adver ‘taste test trio’ would take us.

A hotel restaurant, in a business park, off a dual carriageway — what could possibly go wrong?

Pulling in to the car park at the Campanile Hotel, tucked away in the rear corner of the Delta Business Park off the Great Western Way, I was surprised to see how busy it was.

After all, I hadn’t even been aware that the hotel existed, let alone that it was a busy spot for the visiting business community.

Speaking to people since my visit, it appears that whatever hotel was in this spot before had a less than squeaky clean reputation, becoming known more as a venue for illicit nighttime liaisons than its hospitality or culinary prowess.

Well, times have certainly changed.

Turn your heads no more, eager diners of Swindon, the restaurant at the Campanile Hotel is a revelation.

It doesn’t look like much from the outside, inside it isn’t a particularly large space — designed mainly to accommodate hotel guests I suspect.

But the decor is modern, seats comfortable and well spaced out, and the waiting staff very pleasant on arrival.

The menu is a global affair, with sections described as ‘world mains’, ‘French favourites’ and ‘closer to home’.

The choice of starters ranged from the classic soup du jour (£4.95) to the surprise baked Camembert (£6.95).

Having been stood up by our normal third member who, for reasons known only to him, had opted to entertain a visiting guest at a Wetherspoons, my dining partner Tom and I placed our orders.

Tom went for the pork, apple and sage paté (£5.95) while I chose the haddock goujons (£5.50).

The goujons were delicious, soft tasty fish in batter that was not in the slightest bit greasy.

The accompanying tartare sauce was equally flavoursome while the side salad was well dressed without an iceberg lettuce leaf in sight (bonus points).

Tom’s paté went down equally well. He described the dish, served with quaint toast triangles and a pot of chutney, as “superb”.

“It didn’t matter that I had run out of bread half way through,” he said. “Spooning it straight into my mouth was a positive delight.”

There was just a short pause as we waited for our main courses to arrive.

I had opted for a German take on the classic American hot dog - an unusual choice in a restaurant perhaps but the offer of a proper Bratwurst sausage in a baked pretzel baguette was too much to resist.

Tom went for chicken tikka masala, another dish from the world menu section, although how close it is to anything Indians actually eat is a discussion all of its own.

Both choices were a reasonable £8.95.

Once again, the Campanile kitchen delivered exactly what it promised.

My hot dog was thoroughly enjoyable. The warm, slightly sweet flavour of the pretzel baguette and the distinctly German meatiness of the sausage paired with a basket of fries — it was a real treat.

Tom wasn’t quite so blown away, but equally he was far from disappointed - “nice but with room for improvement” was how he described it.

He would have liked more than the one modest naan bread and the curry portion itself could have been a bit bigger. However on the plus side, it scored well on flavour and spice.

By this point in the evening it was becoming clear that the Campanile was in the running for one of the better meals we had enjoyed in Swindon for some time.

News of its culinary excellence had made its way to the missing member of our trio and he hot-footed it across town to join us for dessert.

There were five puddings on offer. I went for the tarte aux pommes with vanilla ice cream (£5.50) and Tom the creme brûlée (£5.95).

Balancing out our French choices with one from closer to home, new arrival Stephen picked the sticky toffee pudding (£5.50).

All three were very well received.

So often a tarte aux pommes can promise a lot only to deliver an undercooked gooey layer of pastry.

Not here - non, monsieur - a firm base covered with tasty apples rounded off a delightful meal for me.

Stephen and Tom were equally pleased. Tom described the creme brûlée as “sublime, the pièce de resistance”.

Probably realising by now that he had well and truly missed out, Stephen said the sticky toffee pudding was “well worth the drive across town”.

Three coffees provided a pleasant end to a surprisingly enjoyable evening.

We had turned up at the Campanile with fairly low expectations, not really knowing what we would find but fearing the worst.

But we left, Tom and I at least, as true Campanile converts.

Tom summed it up well when he said it was “one of the best meals, if not THE best” he has had since moving to Swindon last year. I’m inclined to agree.

Address: Delta Business Park, Great Western Way, Swindon, SN5 7XG

Telephone number: 01793 514777

Website: http://www.campanile.com/en/hotels/campanile-swindon/

Parking: Free car park

Disabled access: Yes

Our ratings:

Food: 9/10

Choice: 8/10

Decor: 8/10

Customer Service: 9/10

Trip Advisor rating: 3.5/5