STEPHEN DAVY-OSBORNE checks out a revamped and rebooted former Wetherspoons pub

IT wasn’t so long ago that these pages were filled with the announcement that The Groves Company Inn was to close its doors as part of a cost-cutting exercise by pub giant JD Wetherspoon. But the Spoon’s loss has very much become Swindon’s gain.

Time was called on the Fleet Street pub in November of 2015 after Wetherspoons warned of a second year of falling profits due to higher staffing costs. By the spring of 2016 the shutters had come down. The popular boozer was among 34 selected by Wetherspoons to be sold off in the biggest sale of properties since the first branch of the chain was opened in 1979. It had enjoyed 15 years of pulling pints for town centre drinkers since opening its doors in 2001 in the premises of the former Crisco carpet showroom. The then £900,000 pub was part of a drive by JD to open 1,000 new sites across the country.

But being a one minute walk (or five minute drunken stumble) away from the newer Sir Daniel Arms, also on Fleet Street, and a mere seven minute walk (according to Google Maps) away from The Savoy on Regent Street it seemed The Groves’ days were numbered when it came down to the bottom line.

The usual doubt and speculation surrounded what would become of the substantial unit in the town centre as the boards went up over the windows.

But fast forward to October last year and the Groves was back in business — and this time in the hands of townsfolk who wanted to turn the pub’s fortunes around and show the national chain that if done properly there were more than enough punters to go around.

As regulars at Sir Dan’s (it’s a quick and easy stumble across to our weekly appearance at the Mailcoach’s pub quiz on a Tuesday night from there, you see) we thought we ought to try somewhere else for a change. And what better place to pit against Sir Dan’s one Tuesday evening than its former rival?

First off, the makeover the pub has been given is quite impressive. It begins outside with a new lick of paint and a traditional black and gold colour scheme that gives the building a much-needed facelift. Inside, the décor is true to Swindon’s roots with images evoking the town’s railway heritage. The walls are also lined with widescreen TVs, ideal for important sporting games. There seemed to be one unfolding during our visit there, but it didn’t adversely affect our dining experience in the slightest.

When it comes to the menu there is no getting away from the fact that the number of dishes on offer is slightly fewer than you would find up the road in The Savoy or Sir Dan’s, but I don’t necessarily think that is a bad thing – rather be better at a few dishes than mediocre at many.

From the starters and snacks menu there are the likes of soup of the day, prawn cocktail and hot and spicy prawns, which vary in price from £2.45 up to £4.45. My dining companions for the evening, our very own Adver_Tom and Non_Adver_Mary (who we called in to help us with the quiz in brainbox Adver_Chris’ absence) opted for the cheesy garlic bread (£1.45) and the mushroom boats (£2.45) to start while I went for the more expensive Mississippi chicken fillets (£3.75), which came lightly breadcrumbed and with a delicate touch of spice.

For mains, Adver_Tom stuck with his northern roots and ordered the steak, mushroom and stout pie which came with mashed potato, peas and its very own boat of gravy (£6.45). He wasn’t convinced that the mash had originated from potatoes peeled in the kitchen that evening, but for the size of the serving there isn’t really any arguing with that. I, meanwhile, went for the Emmental and bacon burger, which came in the now-traditional brioche bun with cos lettuce, tomato and a healthy serving of onion rings and proper pub chips (£6.45).

I had been expecting a slim patty, the likes of which you find in various big name burger joints that charge a similar figure for their signature burgers, but I was very pleasantly surprised. The burger was definitely a good shout, and just goes to prove that a decent burger can be bought on a budget.

Our guest, meanwhile, a sometimes-vegetarian, chose the Emmental and falafel burger, upgrading her fries for sweet potato fries (£5.95, with a £1 uplift). She chose good on that front, and I did my bit to help her finish those fries when it became apparent that she was struggling. She did point out that vegetarian choices were somewhat limited to that burger or the macaroni cheese, although there are also options on the wraps, sandwiches and paninis front.

We were very tempted to stay and try dessert but we were simply too full from our enjoyable mains that we simply couldn’t have managed the salted caramel cheesecake, chocolate brownie ice cream cake, sticky toffee pudding, apple pie and custard or banoffee pie – even though they were all a steal at just £2.45 each.

All in all starters and mains for three people, along with two non-alcoholic drinks and one pint of beer came in just a smidge over £30. You can’t really argue with that on the value front, as it really was quite exceptional.

Unfortunately our efforts in the quiz that followed were far less successful than the Grove’s attempts to create a pub to rival the town’s two remaining Wetherspoons.

The Groves Company Inn
22-23 Fleet St, Swindon SN1 1RQ
Tel: 01793 480903

Parking: Town centre car parks nearby
Disabled access: Yes

Our ratings:
Food: 7/10
Choice: 7/10 
Decor: 8/10
Customer service: 8/10 
Main course prices: £5.45 - £9.45