From mountain tops to gourmet markets, PAULINE LEIGHTON checks out fine dining in beautiful Zurich

WE were on a real Swiss roll... and it couldn’t have been sweeter.

The reason? Myself and a group of journalists were in foodie heaven in the middle of a hangar at Zurich airport. Fourteen chefs from top hotels were all around madly preparing gastronomic delights for the delectation of a horde of gourmet guests.

This was the start of Il Tavolo, a week-long food festival that began with the Gate Gourmet... and yes that’s right... it was in an air hangar!

Forget comfortable seats... not a chance of that. But replace the lack of seating with any drink you could wish for, gallons of champagne and food from some of the top kitchen maestros in Zurich and who could complain?

The Gate Gourmet boasts a number of stations with chefs all cooking furiously and serving poultry, meat, fish, world food, desserts, starters... and caviar... all in sample size. The cavernous venue was rammed with guests and visitors cramming their faces – and that was just the beginning.

The week continued with fabulous food events every day culminating in a final family brunch at an enormous 200m long table at the Engros market in the middle of the city. This year, its third, the festival attracted 3,000 guests to sample the skills of the chefs from six host hotels, numerous guest chefs and would-be amateurs. It happened at the back end of June – and if you are planning a trip to this beatiful Swiss city next year plan it for the end of June as the event is sure to be staged again.

Food apart, there are myriad delights to experience.

The Old Town boasts quirky medieval houses, narrow lanes and charming shops and bars. A walking tour is the ideal way to appreciate such sights as the double towers of the Grossmünster (Great Minster), Zurich’s landmark, the Peterskirche (Peter’s Church), which has Europe’s largest clockface, and the Fraumünster (Minster of Our Lady), which displays wonderful stained glass windows by Giacometti and Chagall.

One of my favourite parts of the city, though, is Zurich West. It’s a trendy, reclaimed area much like Boxpark, the pop-up mall at Shoreditch. Ships were once built and engines bolted together at Zurich West but now the factories which were left empty house quirky, creative shops and centres of culture.

Beneath railway arches, designer boutiques and market halls have moved in and on the Gerolds-Areal you find Frau Gerolds Garten (Mrs Gerold’s Garden), with some great outdoor bars, music and clothes shops. Easy to while away a sunny afternoon there.

Another must is a cruise on Lake Zurich, if only to drool at the fabulous villas lakeside... one of which is owned by Tina Turner and another by tennis ace and Swiss hero Roger Federer.

Did I say I wouldn’t mention food again? Sorry, I lied. Restaurant Markthalle, a bistro-type eaterie next to the market stands, feeds its customers with dishes based on ingredients from the stalls. Your food is seasonal, served quickly and absolutely delicious.

We wound our couple of days up with a train trip up to the top of Uetliberg, Zurich’s very own “mountain”, from where you have beautiful views of the city and lake – and on a clear day you can see the Alps.

If the top of the mountain isn’t high enough for you (it was for me) there is a tower you can climb to get an even better, if more stomach-churning, view. Or you could just go and eat or drink something else at Uto Kulm, the mountain-top hotel, which seemed a much more sensible choice to me.

We stayed at 25 Hours hotel, a beautifully off the wall place, full of bright colours and a top-floor sauna, free wi-fi and a bar.

The rooms, individually decorated in bright colours, come with air conditioning and private bathroom with shower. They are fitted with an iHome sound system for iPod.

The Toni-Areal Tram Stop is situated in front of the hotel and bicycles and a Mini Cooper can be used free of charge depending on availability.

Visit www.25hours-hotels.com/ en/zurich-west/home/home.html

TRAVEL FACTS

  • Pauline flew to Zurich with Swiss airlines. Swiss offers up to 19 daily flights from London Heathrow, London City, Birmingham and Manchester to Zurich. Fares start from £147 return, including all airport taxes, one piece hold luggage and free ski carriage. For reservations call 0845 6010956 or visit www.swiss.com

     

    The best way to get around the city is with a Zurich Card which can be bought for either 24 or 72 hours. It gives you:

  •  Unlimited 2nd class travel on all forms of public transport in the city and surrounding region l Free admission to the majority of Zurich’s museums
  • 10% discount in various local shops
  • Culinary surprise in selected restaurants
  • 50% discount on public city tours organised by Zurich Tourism
  • Other discounts for leisure activities Prices are adults 20 euros, children 16 euros for a 24-hour pass, or 40 euros per adult and 27 euros per child for a 72-hour pass.