Seventy-five years after Operation Dynamo rescued ‘the whole root and core and brain of the British Army’ from being stranded in northern France, RACHEL BARR visits one of the most important battlegrounds of the Second World War

AFTER four years, 11 months and five days of Nazi occupation, it is little surprise that the northern French town of Dunkirk was left in ruins, with 80 per cent of it destroyed.

These days, the usual mix of old and new is eerily missing here with only small reminders on the past on show.

Next month sees the 75th anniversary of Operation Dynamo when more than 300,000 allied forces travelled to Britain from Dunkirk as part of the largest military evacuation in history.

In just nine days, some 1,400 boats of all kinds, from pleasure boats to military vessels, were used to allow 338,226 soldiers to escape and prepare the Normandy landing.

As part of the anniversary, a host of events are being held from May 21 to 24, including a visit from more than 50 boats escorted by the RNLI and the Royal Navy.

But you don’t have to limit your visit to Dunkirk to May to appreciate what this small town has to offer.

I took the two-hour DFDS ferry from Dover to Dunkirk. It was quick and easy, great for someone like me who doesn’t have good sea legs.

After checking into the All Suites Apart Hotel, a Travelodge style hotel in the university quarter, I headed out to learn more.

Now a thriving, modern town, Dunkirk is of course dotted with memorial sites, with the Princess Elizabeth steamer being a prime example. Sitting in a permanent dock she is one of the few remaining witnesses of the Miracle of Dunkirk.

Previously a pleasure steamer, she rescued 1,673 soldiers in Operation Dynamo and has been in the town since 1999.

If you are lucky enough to be in Dunkirk between May 22 and 24 you will get a rare chance to go aboard, as the ship is not normally open to the public.

If not, you can get a great view of the steamer from across the marina and from the top of the Saint Eloi Belfry.

As well as being a world heritage site, the belfry provides 360-degree views of the town’s sites.

It has a medieval castle feel to it, as you have to climb a tiny winding staircase to reach the top. It’s worth it, though, as you can see for miles.

For the comprehensive story of Operation Dynamo it is worth checking out the Memorial du Souvenir Museum.

Set inside the bunker used as the headquarters for the allied forces during both Operation Dynamo and the Battle of Dunkirk five years later, the museum houses a rich collection of items, from weapons to maps.

It is run completely by volunteers but ask for a tour from the museum’s president, Lucien Dayan, as he is extremely knowledgeable.

If you are short on time, the Port of Dunkirk Museum, based on the quayside, is an interactive one-stop shop.

As well as documenting the history of the port and town, the museum also has a temporary exhibition depicting Operation Dynamo and the siege of Dunkirk.

The Bray dunes in Zuydcoote, where Operation Dynamo took place, still have reminders that not all the boats that took part were successful in their missions.

There are more than 50 shipwrecked on these vast beaches and at low tide you can still get up close to a few that failed not far from shore.

One such boat is The Crested Eagle, a British steamer which was destined to evacuate more than 600 men but was bombed by the Nazis on May 29, 1940. When the tide is out you can explore the wreck for yourself and see how heat from the bombing caused the hull to twist.

Although Operation Dynamo saved thousands, many other soldiers lost their lives.

A short drive out of Dunkirk to Esquelbecq is a memorial site, La Plaine au Bois, where 80 soldiers were assassinated by Nazis in a small barn.

An exact replica of the barn has been built and is permanently filled with poppies. It’s a sobering thought that the walk to the site is exactly the same one taken by the soldiers back in 1940.

Leaving the war theme behind for a moment, the Fort Des Dunes just outside Dunkirk in Leffrinckoucke, is well worth a visit. This 19th century fort is hidden in the dunes; and walking around it is amazing if only to discover just how big it is. The fort, which was commandeered by the Nazis, has recently completed a new interactive museum space.

After a day of culture and history you will be spoilt for choice when looking for somewhere to eat.

A highlight of my trip was a visit to La Cambuse, a restaurant and bar in a converted industrial unit. As well as being very accommodating to a vegetarian (not always an easy feat in France), an impromptu karaoke session (in French, bien sur) made it a very enjoyable evening.

L’Edito Brasserie is another great choice. The popular restaurant is right on the quayside and has a large menu with a selection of local dishes.

Comme Vous Voulez a beachside restaurant, however, is a must if you are a foodie, as the meals served here were the best I had during my whole stay.

If you’re stuck or unsure where to start, the tourist Dunkirk board, based at the bottom of the Belfry, are very friendly.

I’d urge anyone to take a weekend break in Dunkirk. As well as its remembrance of the war, for which is is best known, it boasts plenty of culture, great restaurants, and, if you’re so inclined, the chance to have a go at karaoke, en Français.

l Rachel Barr travelled courtesy of DFDS Seaways. A return ferry from Dover to Dunkirk starts at £74 for one car, although the company currently has mini break deals for £59 return. Visit dfdsseaways.co.uk

l She stayed at All Suites Appart Hotel, which charges 73 Euros for a double or twin room. Visit en.allsuites-apparthotel.com

A City Pass from the Dunkirk tourist office is valid for three days and offers free or discounted access to 21 attractions, museums, a boat trip of the port, free public transport and sports and leisure facilities as well as a 5 euro shopping voucher. The pass costs 12 euros for adults and 6 euros for children.