Coastal cottages take GILL HARRIS to the blissful days of the Famous Five as she heads down to East Devon to indulge in gorgeous views and some very fine dining

IT'S hard to beat the English coast on a sunny day.

Blue skies, fluffy clouds, rockpools and majestic cliffs - there's something wistful and timeless about it which for some reason makes me think of the halcyon world of the Famous Five, when the universe was a more innocent place and adventures awaited around every corner.

So it is that the intrepid Three - me, a pal and Wolsey the Dog - headed off on a coastal adventure of our own to East Devon.

Branscombe is one of the those villages, deep in the heart of a valley, that sweeps into sight as you round the corner of a steep, winding lane and takes your breath away. You know you've arrived somewhere special.

Nestling in the middle of this picturesque village is the Masons Arms, a 14th century inn with bags of character and oozing warmth. It's the kind of inn you'd want to come across on a stormy night and snuggle up by the fire with a warming drink or two.

According to the hotel's website, the Masons began life as a ciderhouse back in 1360, with just one bar measuring 8ft by 4ft - barely enough room to fall down drunk in.

Today, it comprises the entire row of thatched cottages and has been Grade II listed.

Story has it, it's named after the masons who stayed there in the 12th century while they worked on Exeter Cathedral. Bit of a commute on horseback, but if today's standards are anything to go by, well worth the effort.

A few minutes from the village centre down a single track road, you'll find Branscombe's beach, a pretty little bay with a restaurant (though we were there out of season so it was shut) and fishing boats moored on the pebbled beach. Part of the Jurassic coast and designated an Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty, it's perfect for an early morning stroll to blow those cobwebs away.

It is also the site of the shipwreck of the container ship MSC Napoli, which fell foul of a storm in January 2007. You can see her anchor at the head of Branscombe beach. Apparently thieves descended on the site to steal her cargo - which could have been a mystery for the Three to solve if we hadn't been nine years too late.

You can also walk up to the cliffs and enjoy a stroll along the coastal path with its breath-taking views. Don't be put off - it's not as steep as it looks! I'm not a big fan of walking uphill (my companion is convinced I'm a Dalek) and I found it very easy-going.

Of course, such exercise demands refuelling and the Intrepid Three quickly deduced that although there is another pub in Branscombe, the Masons Arms was really the only place to eat. Which wasn't too much of a hardship as its food is sensational.

The bar, which is where you have to eat if you have brought your own version of Timmy the dog with you, is all half-timbered and and stone walls, made cosy with an enormous fireplace.

We were there for a weekend - and it was packed the whole time, so it's clearly extremely popular.

Highlights amongst the three meals we ate there were the enormous, succulent fish and chips - the generous portion dispatched only with help from the dog - the plump, juicy mussels in a beautifully fragrant sauce and the Brixham scallops, perfectly tender, with roe mousseline purses, pork belly lardons and apple puree.

The menu is packed with fresh, local produce, tenderly transformed into fine dining delights by the chef.

Special mention must go as well to the cheeseboard of local cheeses which were sensational.

Oh and breakfast - I can honestly say it was one of the top hotel breakfasts I've ever had. A wide choice of cooked options (I recommend the Eggs Benedict) and fruits, cereals, yoghurts, all of the highest quality. It was a shame to stop eating. I particularly recommend the mini croissants, which are the best croissants I've ever tasted in this country. We ate five each!

After so much dining, of course, it is necessary to spend some time wallowing in your room.

We were in one of the cottage rooms, where dogs are allowed, making it easy to open the French window and let the hound out to stretch his legs in the pretty gardens.

The room was smart, welcoming, extremely comfortable and spacious - it felt more like a suite than just a bedroom, with a stylish modern bathroom.

If eating and lazing around isn't your thing, Branscombe boasts a working forge headed by an award-winning Master Blacksmith and restored watermill, both of which are worth a visit.

Further afield (but not very far), there are the towns of Seaton, Sidmouth and Beer, all of which are charming and worth a mooch.

Branscombe is a delightful spot, perfect for walks or just lazing around and soaking up the scenery. The Masons Arms is a true gem and the biggest problem you'll find is tearing yourself away. The only mystery is when I'm going to find time for a return visit.

Gill Harris stayed at the Masons Arms, Myrtle Cottages, Branscombe EX12 3DJ. Tel: 01297 680300 Website: masonsarms.co.uk

A two-night B&B break is currently £154.50 but check the website for special offers, as prices vary.

It's £10 a night for doggy to come too but you must tell reception when you book so they can give you a dog-friendly room.