Small size, big personality (From Swindon Advertiser)

Small size, big personality

4:02pm Thursday 12th August 2010 in

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BACK in Medieval times, people in a spot of bother could knock on the door of Durham Cathedral and seek sanctuary. They were given 37 days to sort out their affairs, at the end of which, if they had failed to do so, they would be shipped off abroad.

I only wish I'd had 37 days in Durham, as a couple simply weren't enough to see and do everything on offer. But even for a short trip, it’s a great place to seek sanctuary for a much-needed break.

It is one of the smallest cities in Britain, so you could be forgiven for thinking it is only good for a long weekend. Not so. There is so much to see and do, you could easily spend a week – or more. Plus, it has all the cosmopolitan polish of a big city with all the charm and accessibility of a small market town.

And there is something for everyone here – whether you're a fan of fine dining or real ales, a history buff or an aficionado of art and architecture, Durham has plenty to offer. Not to mention the fantastic shopping, from high street names to quirky independent shops.

On your doorstep, there's not only the world famous Durham Cathedral and castle, but a short trip out of town will take you to the coast or the dales. A walk along the river is a must – you are minutes from the bustling streets above, but you will feel as though you are in the depths of the countryside as the only sound you can hear is that of birdsong.

My visit coincided with a particularly proud event for Durham as it reintroduced the city's mystery plays after an absence of more than 100 years.

Traditionally, through the Medieval period and beyond, mystery plays were performed by local crafts guilds and told the story of the Bible from Creation to the Ascension.

Brought up to date (Durham’s originals have sadly been lost) it was a real treat to sit outside in the evening and watch this amazing community feat, bringing together people of all ages and backgrounds.

It's too early to say what is planned for next year but it's well worth keeping an eye on www.durhammysteries.co.uk and considering tying in your visit with this popular new attraction.

When it comes to finding somewhere to eat, there's plenty to choose from, but well worth a mention is Taste Durham, the county‘s own dining watchdog, which recognises places offering great food and a warm welcome. See www.tastedurham.com for its recommendations.

We ate at Oldfield’s Noted Easting House in Claypath, one of Taste Durham’s award-winning restaurants – and it’s easy to see why.

The food is from around the North East and many of the recipes are local culinary heirlooms. Wild boar pie, oysters, mutton hotpot, smoked haddock pan haggerty… You don’t get food like this in many places. Visit www.oldfieldsrealfood.co.uk.

I could go on, but sadly, this article isn’t long enough to do true justice to Durham – and neither was my stay, so if you’re planning a visit, make sure it’s at least a week.

You won’t regret it.

GETTING THERE AND STAYING THERE
I went first class with Cross Country Trains, travelling direct from Cheltenham Spa to Durham, and it's well worth the extra bucks for first class if you can afford it. It’s a leisurely way to travel through some of Britain’s most spectacular scenery without the discomfort of being stuck behind the wheel. Visit ww.crosscountrytrains.co.uk.

The Radisson Hotel Blu is Durham’s newest luxury hotel and boasts a prime riverside location with fantastic views of the cathedral.

It has 207 four-star rooms, a pool, whirlpool spa, fitness club and an award-winning restaurant, Filini’s, serving Italian cuisine. Prices start at £75 a night. Visit www.radissonblu.co.uk The official tourism website carries offers and deals year round for visitors so check out www.thisisdurham.com/ durhamdeals.

TOP THINGS TO DO
Bill Bryson described Durham’s as “the best cathedral on planet earth”. You would be mad to go to the city and miss this gem.

There are plenty of festivals and special events held throughout the year, from the Durham Regatta in June to the International Brass Festival in July to the book festival in October. See the tourism website for details.

Go on a city tour. Well-informed guides from the tourist information service are available for a trail around the city, pointing out interesting spots you may otherwise miss. Go along to the TIC in Millennium Place.

Durham Castle was originally a fortress. It became the Bishop of Durham’s Palace and is now used by the university. Outside term time, it becomes a B&B – you can even stay in the bishop’s master bedroom! You can also go on guided tours.