Marion Sauvebois’ expectations are exceeded at Barnsley House Hotel

The Potager at Barnsley House, Barnsley, Cirencester,

Gloucestershire GL7 5EE

Telephone: 01285 740000 Website: www.barnsleyhouse.com

PARDON my cynicism but if experience has taught me one thing it is that no amount of forewarning can guarantee the all-evasive fine-dining treatment.

Just two months ago my partner inadvertently let slip during a particularly disastrous restaurant visit (the establishment shall remain nameless) that we were no common diners but in fact undercover reviewers. The staff there were either stupid (we were treated in exactly the same manner post-revelation and served half-baked food by frustratingly hapless waiters) or remarkably egalitarian.

One hour later and our ‘fine’ dining experience had left us famished, thoroughly disappointed and frankly mystified.

So even as we were ushered into Barnsley House’s charming restaurant, The Potager, cocktails in hand, I must admit I was on my guard – call it self-preservation in the face of potential crushing disappointment.

We were invited guests, yes, but as I well knew the prospect of a review was no promise of quality or even effort, as harsh as that may sound.

I am glad to say The Potager Restaurant restored my faith in culinary excellence and outstanding service. It also redefined the hackneyed phrase ‘fine dining experience’.

Yes, they were expecting us but the rest of the guests were catered for as fabulously as we were. Everyone, it seems, receives the royal treatment at Barnsley House.

After long and careful deliberation (the menu boasts an impressive list of meat, fish and vegetarian options) I settled for twice baked cauliflower cheese soufflé and smoked haddock (£12). My mother chose the gin cured salmon with cucumber and samphire.

As our delightfully presented starters were carefully laid in front of us, we were speechless – which in our family is a rare occurrence except between the hours of 11pm and 6am.

To fill the increasingly awkward silence (for her, I imagine), our lovely waitress launched into a description of the ingredients, preparation and seasoning. Trying but utterly failing to contain our eagerness to tuck in, we nodded in all the right places, our hands edging dangerously close to our forks, ready to pounce.

My mother gobbled up her smoked salmon so fast that all I can say is she appeared to thoroughly enjoy her entree.

As for me I relished every bite of the savoury soufflé as it melted in my mouth. The bed of smoked haddock deliciously complemented the subtle hints of cheese.

Always attentive and probably taking pity on us, our waitress fed us scrumptious rolls of homemade bread slathered in salted butter, while we eagerly waited for our main courses.

Before we knew it, she returned with Isle of Mull scallops, celeriac and Bramley purée and crackling (£28), and my mother’s handpicked crab served with lemon mayonnaise and toast (£18).

The scallops were by far the most succulent I had ever tasted and I simply could not get enough of the celeriac puree.

Again my mother’s crab disappeared from sight rather rapidly. Promises of enormous Christmas gifts to thank me for choosing her as my plus one followed. I am not sure what was in her crab but another portion of it and she surely would have offered me a Ferrari. I was certainly scoring some major ‘good daughter’ points.

Dessert was an obvious choice: my favourite, lemon meringue tart, served with lime yoghurt sorbet and lemon syrup (£7.50). My mother ordered blackberry and apple pudding with apple crumble ice cream (£7.50).

They were the perfect way to end a divine meal.

If The Potager proved one thing it is that the lost arts of fine dining cuisine and exceptional service are not in fact defunct at all, but alive and well.

Most importantly they are within reach – a mere 22 miles away.