MARION SAUVEBOIS fills her boots with some hearty Eastern European fare

Karczma Polska Wood Street, Swindon Tel: 01793433924

Open Wed & Thur 12pm-9pm; Fri & Sat 12pm-11.30pm; Sun 12pm -8pm

“We’re eating where?” I didn’t quite expect such disbelief in my partner’s voice when I mentioned giving Swindon’s newest Polish restaurant Karczma Polska (in fact the town’s first ever, if records are correct) a try.

Not from someone who is always the first in line to sample every new restaurant opening within a 30-mile radius, and a self-proclaimed king of experimenting with the most exotic and, at times bizarre, ingredient combinations.

But of all the world cuisines I could have mentioned, Polish certainly received the most perplexed reaction.

It is true that ‘Let’s go to the Indian, Italian, French or tapas restaurant tonight’ are phrases more commonly uttered in our household.

Still, his confused and ever so haughty stare made me wonder: were we actually snobs? Would I have given the same response, had I not already perused the restaurant’s enticing menu before making a reservation?

The problem here stemmed from his perception of Polish food as strictly sausages, potatoes and cabbage.

First I had to promise a sausage and cabbage free menu (a little white lie, no sausages in sight at Karczma Polska but there was definitely some deliciously-prepared cabbage).

As we stepped into the restaurant, I was struck by the simple yet warm chalet feel of Karczma Polska. This was poles apart from its former incarnation as Los Gatos tapas bar with its Andalucian tiling and Moorish decor.

The menus were presented to us and as quickly as he had questioned my judgment he relaxed and actually began excitedly discussing meal options. Pierogi or Placek? Prawn or herring for starter? How about Bigos?

We opted to share herrings in oil and onion (£5.95). Generously, the chef split the starter in half and served it on individual plates.

Taking one look at the portion size, we suspected she feared we may starve and actually served us two scrummy full-sized entrees.

Our mains swiftly followed an assortment of no fewer than eight traditional fried pierogi dumplings for me, stuffed with cheese, cabbage and vegetables, accompanied by mash potatoes (£9.50).

I was offered the lighter option, steamed dumplings, but on the waitress’s advice opted to have them fried, the ‘nicer way’, as she put it.

Simply seasoned yet flavourful, the stuffed parcels were a delight. True to his stubborn pledge to avoid cabbage in any shape or form, however, my dining companion ordered Placek (£12.50), a potato pancake, crispy on the outside, yet melt-in-the mouth on the inside, stuffed with beef stroganoff.

If my dumplings had not been so succulent, I may have regretted my choice after a bite of the dish.

Not all stereotypes stem from truth. But I can confirm that Poland’s reputation for its indulgently large portions is completely founded.

This went a long way to warm my partner to Polish cuisine. However, for the first time in living memory, I was unable to finish my plate. I had to draw the line at six.

Suitably recovered after 30 minutes, I was tempted to peruse the dessert menu (when will I learn?). I gave in and indulged in a sweet crepe stuffed with caramelised banana and chocolate (£4.25).

My partner chose ice cream (£1.95) or as he called it a ‘light dessert’ to digest. Indeed, ice cream is well known for its miraculous digestive powers.

By the end of our meal, he was already planning our next visit to Karczma Polska, making a note of the Polish specialities he planned to sample next. I looked at him smugly.

“What? I’m allowed to change my mind?,” he said. Yes, he was.