Simon Rhodes from Lobsterpot Fishmongers, Wood Street Food Hall

A GOOD stock of any kind will form the basis of a great meal in any kitchen. So it is important to get the right balance of flavours so the sauce/stock compliments the dish completely.

With fish most of the time it is best to keep the accompanying sauce relatively simple, especially if you have superb fresh fish. However, there are times when a strong depth of flavour is required. A bouillabaisse or a fish chowder is a good example where the stock brings the dish to life. So, how do you get a good fish stock?

The bones and head of any white fish will provide a tasty stock ,although some bones are better than others. Turbot, halibut, brill, gurnard and red mullet make for the most flavoursome stock. Avoid oily fish such as mackerel or salmon.

There are many recipes for fish stock but I generally use two. The first and easiest is to put some bones and heads of cod, haddock or any cheap fish into a large pan (cut them up so they fit in). Just cover the bones etc with cold water, add a couple of slices of lemon, some ground white pepper and a splash of sweet white wine. Bring this to a very gentle simmer for about 20 minutes and pass the stock through a fine sieve, skimming off any foam. You should end up with a nice clear fish stock which can be portioned and frozen.

If you wish to take a little longer to make an exceptional stock, sweat down some diced onions, carrots and celery (known in the trade as a mirepoix) for a few minutes without colour then add the fish bones and stir in, then add a splash of white wine and cover with cold water. Season with ground white pepper, a couple of star anise, a couple of slices of lemon and a little fresh tarragon. Again bring this to a simmer, skim off any foam and finely strain after 20 minutes. This will give you a nice sweet aniseedy type of fish stock. With a little cream and cold butter and some fresh herbs it will make a great sauce.