MARION SAUVEBOIS meets a chef and entrepreneur. After opening two takeaways in Swindon and a failed restaurant in Bristol, he is now hoping for success with his latest venture

“I FAILED miserably. But when I started I created something unique and different that captured people’s imagination and I wanted to do it again.”

Over the past 23 years David Lai has ridden the choppy waters of the oft fickle restaurant industry.

From an ambitious young entrepreneur punching his mark in Swindon to a defeated restaurateur in Bristol a decade later, his career was marked by prodigious heights and abysmal lows.

Undeterred he plodded on until finally last December he returned to Swindon with an idée fixe, to open a Japanese noodle and sushi bar.

And so with his business partners’ backing, he cooked up YuMe in the very shop where it all began for him in the early 1990s.

“I knew from my experience, both of failure and success in my previous restaurants, that I could do something different again, that would capture the imagination of Swindon,” says the co-owner and manager of YuMe.

Born near London to Chinese parents, from a young age David was enlisted to lend a hand in the family’s ever-struggling restaurant.

“The restaurant was not successful by any stretch of the imagination,” explains the 43-year-old. “I learnt the hard way how to save money. It was a big struggle but it taught me hard work and gave me a work ethic. When you have to count every penny it gives you a hunger to achieve something. That’s what drove me.”

At just 20, he moved to Swindon and launched Mr Moks takeaway in Gorse Hill.

A year later New World Karaoke Buffet Bar opened in what is now Dream Lounge.

“New World was different, it combined food and entertainment. It was something fun and it did well.”

Another takeaway, New World Express, in the very shop where YuMe now trades in Regent Circus completed his growing empire.

Tempted to venture out of Swindon, he set up a second restaurant in Bristol. But the tide turned unexpectedly and after two years he had to admit defeat.

“I failed miserably. It brought me right back down. It’s a hard industry. I lost everything. We had to close everything in Swindon. It was hard. ”

He took on a managerial role, overseeing a group of Chinese and Japanese restaurants, karaoke bar and supermarket for the Ho family in Bristol.

He finally put his plans for YuMe in motion last winter.

“There is Yo!Sushi and Wagamama but there is nothing in between in Swindon. Japanese food is not just about sushi and it’s not just about noodles either. I wanted to represent the best of both worlds,” he adds with clear enthusiasm.

Crucially for David, the menu to remain simple while at the same time introducing customers to a variety of Japanese staples from Bento boxes and sushi platters to noodles and tempura.

“The Japanese embrace the ingredient. Rather than overcooking it or using many spices, like with Chinese food, it’s about simplicity and a clean plate.”

This philosophy has been strictly adhered to by head chef Chee Le. The 29-year-old left a sous chef role at London’s Tsunami restaurant where he worked alongside Nobu-trained chefs to take the reins in the YuMe kitchen.

“For me coming to Swindon was a personal challenge,” he admits. “The goal was to have a menu with an intimate feel. Hopefully people can get a feel of what Japanese food is really like. It’s simple, clean on the palate, with delicate flavours. But I’ve added a few twists here and there with some Chinese and Thai spices. My background is in fusion so I like to mix things up a bit.”

Like David, he hails from a humble Chinese family and through sheer determination rose up the ranks.

“My family had a takeaway just outside London and I learned the basics there. I got my first proper job in Soho. It was a hard time for me. I worked six days a week, 12 hours a day and I was making £3.50 an hour but I learnt a lot.

“My goal now is to have more specials on the menu and get a bit more creative with them. Maybe go for a more fine-dining feel with them.”

Since its inauguration in February, YuMe has enjoyed a steady trade.

“I’m over the moon,” beams David. “I’m actually very surprised by the response. Everybody has been very kind. People have asked me if there was a gap in the market. I don’t think there was a gap for Japanese food as such. There was a gap for nice, clean, fresh food. You get our food quickly but it’s not fast food. Every chef in the kitchen puts their individual twist on the presentation of the dishes so there is soul here. It’s unique.”

The restaurant was named YuMe, which translates as ‘to dream’, at his wife’s suggestion.

“I was probably too manly to admit this was my dream but my wife understood. So she picked the name. She was right: it’s my dream. It’s a comeback.”

David is now hoping to open a fine dining Japanese restaurant in Old Town by the end of the summer.

YuMe is located at 188 Victoria Road. For more details call 01793 521353 or visit www.yumeswindon.com.