STRAYING from the Holy Trinity – starter, main, dessert – is regarded as a sacrilege by the church of foodie purists.

Yet, undaunted by sceptics, Dave Watts has broken from the flock, doing away with our age-old culinary creed to proffer his radical take on fine dining at the Kings Head in Cirencester.

In spring the hotel and restaurant’s award-winning new executive chef rolled out an intriguing menu, listing an impressive array of salads, meats, fish, desserts and vegetarian options.

The conventional starter and main subsections were conspicuous by their absence.

“The idea is to mix and match and make your own tasting menu,” explains the 35-year-old. “I didn’t want any division into starter, main, desert but a lot of dishes. It’s about a memorable dining experience.

“It is a complete concept change for the Kings Head. We offer a selection of food and we encourage people to order a range of dishes. You can have two desserts if you want or just meats. It’s about sharing dishes around the table. It has that homely experience.”

Dave destined himself to a career as an army officer and was well on his way, studying physics, chemistry and maths at A Level in Salisbury when a fortuitous encounter with a catering lecturer moonlighting as a football coach sent him on an unsuspected path.

“We used to be able to do an elective, a social activity, at college and I chose football,” he recalls. “The coach was also a catering lecturer. Basically we got talking and he said, ‘Why don’t you give cooking a go?’ So I did.

“I loved the course. I think being in a kitchen has a similar structure to being in the army. You have the head chef at the top and the hierarchy; you have to be organised and structured. It’s very regimented.”

His hospitality and catering HND in hand, in 2001 the ambitious young chef set his sight on working under some of the country’s - and some might say the world’s - leading chefs. He applied for the post of commis at both Raymond Blanc’s Oxfordshire eatery Le Manoir aux Quat’ Saisons and Gordon Ramsay’s Restaurant at Hospital Road in London.

He was offered both positions but opted for the French cordon bleu’s two Michelin starred restaurant, where he would remain for eight years and rise to the role of senior sous chef.

“I was 21; college never prepares you for something like that,” he adds with a smile.

“I learnt an immense amount. It’s the university of cooking. Raymond Blanc was not in the kitchen as such. But the restaurant is run by his philosophy and ethos – it filters down from him. He is very passionate and he is as manic as you see him on TV.

"He has got eight things going on in his mind at any one time. He is driven to go forward and always change. For him there is always something you can learn and do. There is always better quality products you can find. I learnt technique there and about the quality of ingredients.

"One important thing I learnt was how to barter to get the best products at the best price.”

Followed a stint as head chef at Hurst House on The Marsh Manor, in Carmarthenshire. Dave then joined Cotswold House Hotel, in Chipping Campden.

It is during that time that he pioneered the novel tasting concept he would later introduce at the Kings Head. He was swiftly named Chef to Watch by the Good Food Guide.

“I just wanted people to have more choice,” he says with enthusiasm.

“Being named Chef to Watch in 2013 was phenomenal. It happened so soon. We opened in May 2012 and the Good Food Guide comes out in August.”

The hotel was sold and in 2013 Dave was asked to take the helm at the Star Inn in Sparsholt where his fare scooped two Oxfordshire Restaurant Awards.

He was appointed executive chef at the Kings Head – which reopened in September 2014 after an extensive redevelopment- earlier this year.

Most dishes are prepared at one stage on the restaurant’s Robata Japanese Grill, which Dave inherited when he took the reins. This lent itself perfectly to his cuisine, heavily influenced by Japan’s ‘clean’ and seemingly effortless culinary approach.

“I love clean flavours and simple combinations that’s why I’m great fan of Japanese cuisine. I use my French training but use less butter and dairy and use more natural flavours; it’s about keeping it clean and focusing on the quality of the ingredients.

"We’ve designed the menu around the grill as much as we could. It’s a flavour enhancer. Everything is cooked on it even if it’s just at the end to finish a dish.”

While the sharing concept is reminiscent of Iberian tapas bars, he insists it is a great departure from the street food of Spain.

Each portion is much more generous than a meagre tapas but just two-third of a regular plat de resistance, which is reflected in the reduced prices. Dishes range from £4.45 to £11.95. Steaks can go up to £59.95.

“I just wanted to give people this wow factor but with value for money. The biggest thing for me is that’s it educational. It’s a way to discover new things. Sharing food creates a conversation. It leaves people buzzing. That’s what the food experience is all about for me.”

The Kings Head is at 24 Market Place, Cirencester. To make a reservation or find out more call 01285 700900 or visit kingshead-hotel.co.uk.