Leaving the sweeping shores of India’s Kerala MARION SAUVEBOIS talks to Robby and Rijo about their latest venture in Swindon, the restaurant PappadamS

 

DESERTING the balmy climes of their motherland for England’s rain-battered shores was not a decision Robby George and Rijo John took lightly.

The promise of an abundance of Indian cuisine on arrival as their only comfort, 15 years ago they uprooted their lives and families to make their mark on Britain’s food industry.

Barely unpacked, they wrestled through torrential downpours and pushed their way towards the shining beacon of an Indian eatery.

Aghast at the catalogue of British inventions passing for Indian specialities, they put down their menus.

The inclement weather was one thing, but this mockery of their native land’s delicate staples had pushed them firmly over the edge.

Soon, they set about opening their very own authentic restaurant, PappadamS in Reading.

This spring they inaugurated their second establishment in Swindon.

“We wanted to learn more about the food industry and we really wanted a challenge so when the opportunity presented itself to work in the UK we took it,” says Robby.

“That was the push we needed. We took a plane and left.”

“But it was a bit of a shock – the food and the weather,” he admits.

“You really miss your country when it starts to rain. But we were willing to compromise on the weather.”

The food, however, was a different matter entirely.

“The food was completely bland, it was disappointing,” adds Rijo, 40.

“We realised the UK was a real mishmash and we couldn’t find authentic food. We always had in mind we might open a restaurant so we decided to do it. We wanted to introduce people to real Indian food.

“Things like Madras or Balti dishes were made for the British, they don’t exist in India.”

They are reaping the rewards for their stubborn and rather brazen campaign to re-educate and feed the masses.

“The goal was to serve people great traditional food in our own restaurant,” adds Robby, 41.

“And I think we’ve done it through sincere hard work. We wanted to focus on quality and quantity – we’ve never compromised on that. And the restaurant gave us somewhere to eat ourselves.”

Rijo and Robby first met while working as a chef and manager respectively in a hotel in the southern Indian state of Kerala.

When a Blackpool hotel sent a recruiter to Kerala they jumped at the opportunity to fine-tune their skills abroad in the early noughties.

After a short spell in Lancashire, they relocated to Reading, where after much market research – the pragmatic Robby would not have had it any other way – they opened PappadamS (the real spelling of the word: “No ‘o’s or ‘u’s”, Robby shakes his head) in 2001, a restaurant specialising in both northern and southern Indian gastronomy and boasting a rather larger-than-life offering.

Yet compared to the dictionary-length menus commonly found in India, theirs is rather minute, Rijo insists.

“It was a big gamble,” says the 40-year-old chef with a smile.

“But that’s something we really wanted to do. I’ve always loved to cook. I used to help my mother at home.

I put together the menu with my wife, Soma, who is also a trained chef and used to work with me. We knew we wanted a mix of southern and northern dishes – it’s a fusion. We have a few traditional dishes from Kerala like steamed fish in banana leaves. It’s different from what you find in other restaurants.”

Favourites also include Thalassery mutton curry, prepared Kerala-style, prawn Ularthiyathu, lamb and chicken Saagwala.

Two years ago, the seed for a new PappadamS was finally sown.

“We actually had many customers coming from Swindon,” explains Robby.

“That’s what sparked the idea. It took us more than a year to do the market studies and make up our mind. We wanted to make sure it was the right place for us. Regent Circus was under construction, the town was moving and a lot was happening at the time. That’s exactly what we wanted.” More diligent market research and number-crunching later, Robby and Rijo settled on the former La Dolce Vita in Groundwell Road. In spring they unveiled the new restaurant in great pomp with the mayor and an armada of local dignitaries and friends in attendance.

“We’ve had a very good response so far and we‘re really excited about the restaurant,” adds Robby.

“It was slightly easier the second time. We were more relaxed. We had 10 years to practise.

“If you serve good food and give people great service, make sure they are happy, they will come and come back.”

While cautiously testing the waters in Swindon, the ambitious friends have set their sights on one-day expanding the business to a national chain.

“Our children are asking when the next restaurant is going to open,” laughs Rijo.

Over the years the pair have developed a squabble-proof work dynamic: no one interferes in the other’s business. While Rijo’s domain is the kitchen, Robby oversees front of house and manages the troops.

“We were friends and neighbours in Kerala and we’ve known each other for more than 20 years. We’ve always shared ideas and we support each other when there’s a problem.

“But really we stay out of each other’s hair,” says Robby with a smile. “That’s the secret.”

PappadamS offers a three-course lunch deal for £6.99. All the meat served is Halal. To make a reservation call 01793 490000.