Holidays are remembered as  ELIZABETH MACKLEY enjoys the ambience of Pino’s

ITALIAN has always been among my favourite cuisines.

Perhaps because it reminds me of my favourite holidays; the romance of the language, long, warm evenings and the ancient passion of the culture.

It could equally be because I’ve a soft spot for pizza and ice cream, but I didn’t need much of an excuse to take a short drive through the Wiltshire countryside to Marlborough’s own corner of Italy.

Tucked away as you enter the colossal high street, Pino’s is deceptively small from the outside and it’s only once you venture beyond the impressive wine bar you realise the depths of the restaurant’s sophisticated interiors.

We paused in the bar, each choosing our own tipple – for me a red wine and for my friend Adam, a lager.

Once we’d been settled at our table we perused the menu, sporting delights from roast chicken stuffed with spinach (£13.95) to 28-day aged fillet steak (£21.95) and seafood risotto (£11.95), not to mention the section dedicated solely to pizza.

We were so spoilt for choice, twice we apologetically sent our waiter away as we finally whittled our decisions down to the final few.

Finally to start, Adam opted for the fritto di calamari e gamberi (£8.45) – crispy deep fried squid and king prawns served with garlic mayonnaise and lemon. Crunchy and tangy, it complemented the summery evening. The fish burst out of their semolina casings, tantalising the tongue for the main course ahead.

Meanwhile I chose to try burrata (£8.95), a cheese made of Buffalo mozzarella and cream. Served with sweet peppers, toasted bread and, my favourite, sun dried tomatoes, it made a fresh and slightly sweet salad to whet the palate.

Creamy and delicate, the tomato perfectly balanced the cheese, and the toasted bread added a bit of crunch to an otherwise potentially bland dish.

To follow, Adam chose the calzone (£12.95). A folded pizza drizzled in olive oil, it arrived glistening and oozing with its moreish contents.

Chargrilled chicken, pepperoni sausage, ham, pancetta, red onions, tomato sauce and mozzarella combined into a meaty, rich, appetite-busting main course he could barely finish.

Meanwhile, I opted for the tagliatelle mare e monti (£12.95). A bowl brimming with lacy ribbons of tagliatelle wriggled in a delicious cream and brandy sauce, cuddling prawns, king prawns, spinach and field mushrooms.

While I’m a fish fan I don’t usually enjoy it in pasta, but the smooth, sweet sauce delicately coated the fish, making for a delightful dish.

The portions were so generous we barely managed to complete them, and neither of us had room for dessert.

Instead we lingered contentedly as the evening drifted past, before making our way home in the twilight.

Pino’s Ristorante, 13 New Road, Marlborough, Wiltshire SN8 1AH.
Tel: 01672 512 969, email: marlborough@pinosristorante.co.uk, website: www.pinosristorante.co.uk