Something Fishy with Simon Rhodes of the  Lobster Pot Fishmongers, Wood Street Food Hall, Swindon

THIS week I had a request from a customer who had entered into the cheffing trade and was told to enhance his knowledge of fish by trying John Dory.

John Dory is also known as St Pierre or Peter’s Fish and has a distinctive dark spot on the side of its body and extremely large spines at the top of its dorsal fin.

Legend has it that the large spot was the thumbprint of St Peter who picked out money from the fish’s mouth. It is also used effectively for distracting and confusing its prey.

This wonderful fish is dark green in colour and due to the spines running along its back makes it quite difficult to fillet.

The fillets, however, are quite small compared to the rest of its body and so there is quite little yield from a sizeable fish. That, and the facts that it is a solitary predator, means it commands a high price at market.

The bones make a great stock.

Found in seas all around the world especially the UK, it is a very sought after fish for top restaurants that exploit its delicate taste.

It is very versatile and can be roasted whole, pan fried, steamed or grilled.

Because of its natural sweetness of flavour it doesn’t need a lot to accompany it and is best served with a simple butter or caper sauce.

The fillets work extremely well with a risotto or on top of a salad. Try it with a warm salad of tomatoes, green beans, new potatoes, capers and some oven roasted or chargrilled fennel.

First half and cook the potatoes, and blanch some cut green beans (French or dwarf beans are ideal). Then quarter and skin and deseed several tomatoes, grill or pan fry the fillets of John Dory until just cooked through, and in a pan gently melt some good quality unsalted butter.

Add the potatoes and beans to the butter and warm through. Then, as you are about to serve, add the tomatoes and a sprinkling of capers to the pan and mix well. Serve with the fillets placed with the warm salad of potatoes and fennel. A squeeze of lemon will complete the dish.

Make sure there are no thumbprints on the side of the plate!