Time to try something different... and JOHN CARTER found a great choice at the Mela Indian restaurant

IT’S THE caveman in me that just loves the Mela Indian restaurant in Old Town.

As it’s placed on the table like some grand ceremonial kill, I’m ready to fight to the death to ensure I get just that little bit more than everyone else on my table.

Cutlery? Who needs it, as I reach across and rip off the lion’s share? I might as well beat my chest and shout out Captain Caveman as I lick my lips with wonder at what’s before me.

Yes, it’s the giant nan bread which arrives on some kind of spectacular metal spike that really ticks all the boxes. Like the showstopper on those cookery programmes, Mela’s Plain Nan can’t help but turn heads.

It was a wonder there was any room for it on our table by the time the rest of our food had arrived. That said, I’d have demanded a bigger space just to ensure its magnificent presence.

For years a chicken tikka massala was my meal of choice on a visit to an Indian. With pilau rice and that essential nan bread, it meant I could order even in the most dishevelled of states, slurring my words but confident I’d get a meal on just the right side of spiciness.

But as the years have passed so has my willingness to divert from the tried and tested (although, to be fair, so has my tendency to turn up for a late-night curry not knowing quite where I am).

So it was time to try something different and, even though it’s listed among the classic dishes, I opted for a chicken korai (£7.50). Apparently it’s barbecued in the Tandoori and then cooked with green peppers and green chillies.

All I know is it tasted mighty fine, with the peppers and chilli providing a juicy kick and that staple pilau (£2.20) helping to keep the spiciness in check.

As if the plain nan (£1.90) wasn’t enough to get new arrivals peering across to our table in envy, my partner opted for a chicken shashlik (£7.90). This spectacular dish came still sizzling furiously on its skillet, having been marinated in yoghurt with special herbs and tandoori spices before being cooked in a clay oven.

Accompanied by a delicious-looking fresh salad, this was a meal in itself and my partner chose wisely not to ask for an additional rice dish. She did have a crack at the plain nan, but a glance from Captain Caveman meant she knew not to go back for more.

My daughter has still to develop a fondness for spicy dishes, so despite much encouragement to venture out of her comfort zone, could not be persuaded away from a chicken kurma (£6.90). Still, if you know what you like, why change? She, too, ordered pilau rice and was allowed to take her share of nan (after I’d had mine, of course).

It was Millie’s first outing to an Indian restaurant and there were nothing but positive comments as the kurma was demolished with relish.

My son, Austin, also knows what he likes and won’t be swayed, but he at least will go for something a little spicier. And he was more than impressed with his lamb rogan josh (£5.90) and, you’ve guessed it, pilao rice and plain nan.

I know, I know, Captain Caveman was very generous to share his plain nan with three others. But worry not. Concerned it might not be quite enough to go round (although it really was), I also ordered a stuffed keema nan (£2.50). This is nothing like the size and stature of the plain one but is packed with taste and often feels like a meal in itself.

My partner and I both enjoyed Kingfisher lager, while the children stuck to Coke, all of which were very reasonably priced.

And given that we’d already enjoyed half a dozen popadoms (60p each) with relishes (50p per person), plus some delicious fried potato slices with the compliments of the restaurant, there was no way we could squeeze in dessert.

Thankfully we live just a short stroll from the restaurant, so this Captain Caveman could just about waddle home before sitting down for a nice, long nap.

This hunter-gather business is very strenuous, you know.

To ensure the integrity of our reviews, all our critics dine as paying customers without the restaurant’s knowledge (unless otherwise stated). Photographs are taken at a later date

Mela Contemporary Indian Cuisine
122 Victoria Road
Swindon SN1 3BH
Tel: 01793 534072
mela-swindon.co.uk

Parking: no but the Prospect public car park is at the back
Disabled access: Yes
Adver ratings:
Food: 10/10
Choice: 10/10
Decor: 8/10
Customer Service: 10/10
Main course prices: from £5.90 to £12.90
TripAdvisor rating: 4.5