Something Fishy with Simon Rhodes of the Lobster Pot Fishmongers, Wood Street Food Hall, Swindon

EVERY now and then I learn something new, either from a customer or supplier, and last week a customer taught me a new way to cook a whole salmon.

Now, I always thought the best way was in a fish kettle with a court-bouillon.

The ‘new’ advice is so simple that apparently it is common practice in New Zealand.

If you wrap the whole salmon in tin foil with some herbs and lemon and then place it in the top part of your dishwasher (obviously remove all your plates and cutlery first, and don’t put any detergent or rinse aid in!) and set the dishwasher on to the glass wash setting, the steam and the hot water will cook the fish perfectly and it won’t leave any odours.

So, how about serving your dishwasher salmon with a homemade hollandaise sauce?

To make hollandaise sauce, you need to make clarified butter. This helps stabilise the sauce so that it doesn’t curdle, and it really does make a difference. To do this gently heat some butter in a pan so that the fat separates from the clarified butter. Then heat an inch or two of water in a saucepan over a medium heat. Combine a couple of egg yolks and a little cold water in a glass or stainless steel mixing bowl (not aluminium) whisk for a minute or two, until the mixture is light and foamy. Whisk in a couple of drops of lemon juice, too.

The water in the saucepan should have begun to simmer. Set the bowl directly on top of the saucepan of simmering water. The water should not come in contact with the bottom of the bowl. Whisk the eggs for a minute or two, until they’re slightly thickened. Remove the bowl from the heat and begin adding the melted butter slowly at first, a few drops at a time, while whisking constantly. If you add it too quickly, the emulsion will break and the mixture will start to curdle. Continue beating in the melted butter.

As the sauce thickens, you can gradually increase the rate at which you add itt, but at first, slower is better. After you’ve added all the butter, whisk in a little lemon juice and season to taste with salt and cayenne pepper. The hollandaise will have a smooth, firm consistency. If it’s too thick, you can adjust the consistency by whisking in a few drops of warm water.