MICHELLE TOMPKINS is delighted by the changes at a refurbished and revitalised Fox and Hounds

THE last time I looked, admittedly at least five years ago, the Fox and Hounds was a little... errmm... down at heel.

Slightly sticky furniture, swirly carpets and a menu paying homage to Iceland (the food store, not the country) left a bad taste in my mouth and I mentally placed the pub in the wild horses category.

So when those wild horses came calling and I was asked to go back, with the promise that things had changed, I was sceptical to say the least. Even the invitation on the website, to 'step inside a pub transformed' couldn't do much to shift my pessimism.

But... in a word, wow! I mean... WOW! From the signage to the decor to the food on the plates and the people around the tables, The Fox and Hounds has changed beyond all recognition. Never have I seen a place so completely rejuvenated, so refreshed, so exciting and vibrant and convivial (and every other adjective that describes the perfect pub). If it weren't for the fact that the building is still sitting in its same prominent spot on the hill out of Wroughton, I'd have thought someone had bulldozed the old place and rebuilt it from scratch.

The architects of the transformation are Vicky and Darren Turner, who are building up something of an empire in this area, now running The Kings in Wood Street, The Plough in Devizes Road and The Clifton in Clifton Street, as well as The Fox and Hounds - each of which has been tarred with the same successful brush.

For their Wroughton venture, those dark browns and reds I remember of old have been replaced with soft greys, taupes and greens, with scrubbed wooden tables, cleverly mismatched chairs and bang on-trend log stacks adding interest.

The evening menu is fairly limited but extremely well thought-out, with just eight starters and eight mains to choose from, but each of them as tempting as the next. I toyed with ordering the pheasant terrine with summer berry compote (£7) and beetroot and goats cheese risotto (£6) before deciding on the smoked haddock Scotch egg (£6). It was a thing of beauty, the bright yolk oozing gently over its fishy casing, enhanced by dots of citrus mayonnaise around the edge of the bowl.

The praise was just as glowing from the other side of the table, where my partner was ploughing with considerable speed through the smoked chicken and chorizo salad (£8). Special mention must go to the honey and mustard dressing, he said, which added a piquancy and sweetness all at the same time.

My first choice of main course - the Moroccan beef tagine (£18) - was sadly not available by the time we ordered (around 9pm on a busy Friday night), but never mind... I could have eaten any one of the other seven dishes and gone home a happy woman, I reckon.

My slow roasted pork belly with Bombay potatoes and mint yoghurt (£16) was another vision, the square of tender meat perched prettily on top of the spicy potatoes in a thoroughly modern wide-brimmed bowl. I loved the idea of an English/Indian fusion and it didn't disappoint, the flavours mingling perfectly in my mouth, cooled down suitably by the mint.

Our other dish of choice - pan-fried chicken breast with Dijon mustard cream (£16) - was just as well-received. It came with a huge slab of dauphinoise potato and a separate mini casserole of steamed vegetables, which were revealed with a flourish by our waitress (a lovely touch). When asked to describe it, my partner just had one word: perfect. Enough said.

Last time I went to the Fox and Hounds I couldn't wait to leave it behind, but this time we were having such a lovely time, in a lovely, relaxing atmosphere, that we were loathe to call it a night.

After a few nudges we eventually ordered a dessert to share, the Eton mess with summer fruits and raspberry coulis (£7). The meringue was sticky and chewy and obviously homemade, with the fresh currants and berries adding a sharpness to offset the sweetness and cream. Even my partner, who always, always orders a chocolate dessert, loved it and was glad we'd compromised on pud rather than ordering his first choice of chocolate brownie (£7).

You might have guessed by now that I rather liked my visit to The Fox and Hounds. Swindon and its surrounding villages needs more places like this, where freezer-to-fryer food is frowned upon in favour of good, home-cooked dishes that put a smile on your face.

Bring in the Turners, I say. They clearly know what they are doing.

The Fox and Hounds

Markham Road

Wroughton

SN4 9JT

Tel: 01793 815415

Web: foxandhoundswroughton.co.uk

Parking: Yes, plenty

Disabled access: Yes

Adver ratings

Food: 10/10

Choice: 9/10

Decor: 10/10

Customer service: 9/10

Main course prices: From £14 to £22

TripAdvisor rating: 4/5