Nathan Outlaw prepares to join a line-up of culinary greats at the Big Feastival. MARION SAUVEBOIS spoke to him

MICHELIN-starred kitchens are renowned for two things: delights that melt even the most pernickety of palates, and fire-breathing chefs ruling rank and file with an iron fist in their pursuit of perfection.

Despite having three stars to his name, Nathan Outlaw never subscribed to this do-or-die philosophy. Miserable, harried chefs rarely achieve their best – and that’s his bottom line.

Although there’s no shirking the ungodly hours, mind-numbing vegetable peeling or washing up (not even when you’re the boss: “Only last Saturday I was on wash-up - I didn’t mind,” he says magnanimous) Nathan’s kitchen at his self-titled restaurant in Cornwall, he insists, is no crucible of pain.

At the mention of steep working conditions elsewhere, the famously genial chef reels off a list of the 1990s classic hits he and his close-knit crew rock it up to during service.

“I’m a 90s listener so early Red Hot Chilli Peppers, Blur and Nirvana....Most teams of chefs are very serious but we’re not, we always have music on,” he says with a deep belly laugh.

As owner and self-appointed master DJ, he gets veto rights on the set list though. “I let them choose the music but they get told if it’s crap,” he guffaws heartily. “You have to give it 100 per cent attention obviously. But I always try to create an environment that’s quite relaxed, where people are happy. I still don’t feel like I’ve got the perfect scenario yet but I will one day.”

He may favour a surprisingly laidback approach given his industry kudos but Nathan is no slacker. His chef father trained him well, he quips.

When a doe-eyed Nathan began to show early signs of promise, his pop did his best to “put him off”, offloading the most backbreaking chores on the young boy during school holidays to impress upon him the thankless nature of the job.

“When I was a kid I idolised him,” recalls the 38-year-old fondly. “He worked for a catering company and I loved to watch him in the kitchen. It seemed like a fun place as a young child and I wanted to be part of that. I enjoyed the banter and the camaraderie. But he did try to put me off to a certain extent. He gave me a few tough jobs. I did all the cheese grating, peeling and washing up - a lot of washing up. He wanted me to know that you give up a lot to do this.

“But it’s never felt like a job. I’m very lucky. As much as it is hard it’s good fun.”

Armed with a staunch work ethic, the Kent native enrolled at Thanet College before moving to London where he entered the big leagues, honing his craft under Gary Rhodes and the formidable Eric Chavot. Soon he met the man whose influence would shape his career: Rick Stein. Nathan credits the celebrity chef and restaurateur for instilling in him a lasting passion and appreciation for seafood; one he went on to build a peerless reputation for.

“His knowledge of seafood was quite instrumental,” volunteers Nathan, a vocal champion of sustainable fishing.

At the tender age of 25, Nathan took the plunge and launched his first restaurant, The Black Pig. His father’s rigorous coaching came in handy then. He paid himself £11,000 a year and at one point couldn't even afford kitchen containers. Eight tough months on, he was awarded his first Michelin star. The accolade validated months of tireless work. But he hastens to add, he was never one to court recognition or measure his success against the number of certificates on his walls. In fact, in many ways, stars can be a double-edged sword, he explains.

While the restaurant was finally put on the culinary map, behind the scenes things were not as rosy as they seemed.

“Getting a star at that age after eight months was unheard of,” he concedes with a carefully contained hint of pride. “I was in the kitchen with one or two chefs depending on the time of year. In winter I couldn’t afford to have two chefs.

“It’s never been the motivation to do what I do,” adds the 38-year-old. “It’s a lovely reward to have and to be included in the guidebooks but for me it’s always been about finding a good balance of life and work. And customers’ appreciation of the food, that’s why you do it.

“Even with the award it didn’t mean that we were full or busy. It does bring attention from a media point of view but in the early years from a customer point of view it didn’t mean a great deal. Actually sometimes it makes people think you’re expensive. One of my restaurants has a star and we actually avoid talking about it.”

He now runs a small empire including his flagship two-starred Restaurant Nathan Outlaw and Outlaw’s Fish Kitchen, his lesser advertised one star eatery, both in Port Isaac, The Mariners Public House in Rock and Outlaw’s at The Capital in London.

With a trio of cookery books under his belt and multiple TV appearances, Nathan has grown into a household name over the years. The seemingly unflappable chef’s bonhomie and easy manner have gone a long way to win over the great British public. But don’t be duped by his cool exterior. Nathan, who is poised to demystify the sorely overlooked squid at The Big Feastival at the end of the month, is not entirely impervious to stress or irrational fears. He is still haunted by a disastrous trestle table incident circa 1990.

“I was working in a banqueting kitchen in London when I was younger chef. We were putting out 500 starters on these big tables. One of them wasn’t put up properly and 60 plates went smashing to the floor. Luckily I was just a commis chef but I wouldn’t have wanted to be head chef that day. Now I always check tables. It’s just the horror on everyone’s face when it happens. The mistakes usually come from equipment – it’s always the culprit. Although it’s a dangerous thing to say because then everyone starts to pass off the blame on the equipment.”

Nathan Outlaw will join the Big Feastival line-up at Alex James’s Farm near Kingham, Chipping Norton, between August 26 and 28. To book tickets go to thebigfeastival.com.

PANEL

Nathan Outlaw will be joined by a host of high-profile restaurateurs and Michelin-starred heavyweights at the Big Feastival.

Stalwarts Jamie Oliver, Raymond Blanc and Tom Kerridge will be among those to catch at all cost at the three-day festival. A host of up-and-comers and TV favourites including Great British Bake Off winner Nadiya Hussain, Ashley Palmer-Watts and The Fabulous Baker Brothers will also share tips and tricks of the trade in the chefs’ kitchen.