DANIEL ANGELINI meets the entrepreneurial mum who has cooked for hundreds of people with food produced at her family farm

DRIVING down winding roads through picturesque villages with endless fields spreading away like a patchwork quilt, to the grand Georgian estate of Purton House, felt like a trip back in time.

Tucked away behind St Mary’s Church in Purton, the stately home and farm is so hidden away from the main road that it confuses sat-navs, but a bit of extra exploration along a couple of sharp bends will lead inquisitive visitors to its entrance gates.

It’s difficult to imagine that 130 acres of land could be described as ‘hidden away’ but travelling along an anonymous path and suddenly seeing the house for the first time, was quite a surprise. It stands opposite a glistening lake, while above rain clouds drifted away to reveal blazing sunshine streaming on to the ancient stonework

Owned by 77-year-old Myfanwy Barker, the home was turned into a venue for weddings, birthdays and other private parties four years ago.

A path connects the house directly to the nearby church so newlyweds can stroll straight to their wedding reception the moment they get married and stay the night if they want, as the house doubles as a bed-and-breakfast.

Mrs Barker’s daughter, Talia Maddison, has built up decades of experience creating top-notch cuisine with her own catering company, Cotswold Cooks.

Now she’s branched out to help with her family’s newest business, catering for the guests that regularly fill its ornately-decorated rooms.

The 53-year-old lives on the farm in a smaller stone house near the main manor with her husband, Simon, and children Harry, Louis, Eva, Gabe and Miffy.

Some of them wander in and out of the house during our chat, briefly turning the peaceful setting into a bustling hive of activity.

A fat, fluffy dog called Barney trundles over to inspect the strange man in a suit talking to his owner.

Sitting in a living room that opens out on to a kitchen, covered in wood-panelled surfaces with clusters of worn pots and pans hanging from the walls, the vibe is Downton Abbey mixed with a storybook cottage.

“Simple, rustic, home-cooked food is always popular and that’s what we provide,” Talia says, flicking through one of the 200 cookbooks she owns,

“We like to change things up, do something special and a bit different for each wedding. Every menu is specific to that bride and groom. We talk about their favourite foods, old family recipes they have, and go from there.”

She counts Jamie Oliver, Diana Henry and Yotam Ottolengi among her inspirations, pointing out a celeriac recipe in one of Yotam’s books as a recent favourite.

“The last dish that made everyone go ‘wow, that’s great” was roasted celeriac — scrub it clean, add salt and olive oil, roast it for three hours, slice it and serve. It looks a bit weird but it’s delicious.

“People are also loving porchetta at the moment, a pork shoulder stuffed with garlic and fennel.”

Her children, nieces and nephews who live in and around the farm all lend a helping hand in the kitchen.

Her sisters supply the food — Rowie grows veg and breeds cattle from Purton House’s Organic Farm, Ibby makes chocolate treats from her own company and Alice brews tea and coffee from her own local business.

Talia’s husband uses the years of expertise gained from running his own event management company to ensure that every special occasion goes smoothly.

“It’s definitely a family affair,” Talia adds with a laugh.

Purton House was originally built in 1810 and was in a state of disrepair when Mr and Mrs Barker bought it in 1976.

After carefully refurnishing the home with French furniture and antiques that complemented its historic background, the couple thought it would be perfect for parties and entertaining, and they were right.

Its idyllic countryside setting and classical décor has made it a popular place for people looking to celebrate somewhere fancy.

After a quick visit to the farm shop where fresh organic produce harvested from the surrounding fields fills the shelves, we wander over to Purton House itself, with a few escaped chickens strutting around our feet.

The manager and matriarch of the whole enterprise sits in her apron in the cavernous kitchen of the main house, relaxing on a chair at the end of a table piled high with jars and bottles.

Not many people start their own business when they’re 73, but that’s what Mrs Barker did after her husband, Douglas, passed away.

She’s lived all over the world, from France to Mogadishu, picking up recipes and cooking techniques from different cultures.

She talks vividly about her experiences in Spain and Africa before enthusiastically explaining how much she enjoys her work.

“I lived with a Spanish family for two summers so I’ve always been fond of Spanish food.

“I love it all. I love seeing the different brides that come here who are all so enthusiastic about the place and the food — it’s never a drudge!”

The Barker family tree is quite extensive: Mrs Barker has six children, 23 grandchildren and a couple of great-grandchildren, many of whom seem to have inherited her love of cooking and have followed in her footsteps, travelling around the world, trying new things and bringing back new ideas for quirky meals and quality courses.

“She taught us all how to cook, how to skin a rabbit, how to pluck a pheasant,” Talia explains, “She’s a very natural cook and she hasn’t slowed down.”

Talia was astounded at how her mother had adapted to the challenges of running a business in the 21st century.

“When my father passed, she had to start earning money to feed her family and pay for the house, as this is an expensive place to keep, so she learned how to understand the internet and use email when she was used to writing letters to people to get things done.

“So much has changed since her day but she’s done so well, it’s really impressive.”

To find out more or make a booking, visit www.purtonhouseweddings.co.uk.