Stepping from the biting cold, wind and misty rain of an Old Town street through the doors of the Thai Orchid was like crossing continents into the warmth, colour and tastebuds-tempting smells of the Orient.

We were welcomed by a softly spoken waiter who led us to our table amidst a dining room decked out with wooden panels, exotic carvings, bamboo blinds and screen doors all ablaze with twinkling fairy lights.

It was still early on a Saturday night but the restaurant was almost half full and the buzz of friendly conversation could be heard at neighbouring tables. The head waitress, dressed in the rich purple and gold of a national Thai costume, roamed between the tables making sure all was in order and the centrepiece carnations were fresh.

Having waited for a few minutes we did have to ask for the menus but that was soon rectified with instant apologies for keeping us waiting.

The extensive menu kept us busy while we sipped our Gin and Tonics. It really was a hard choice as there was so much on offer, but we eventually plumped for a distinctly fishy starter of Tempura Prawns and Spring Roll Prawns.

We were offered prawn crackers but felt this would be too much if we were truly going to enjoy our main course without being too stuffed to the gunnells - however tempting.

The Tempura Prawns were £6 and they were totally gorgeous, crunchy breadcrumbs surrounded scrumptious, flavoursome king prawns. They were accompanied by a sweet chilli dip in tiny china bowls decorated with colourful scenes. The Spring Roll Prawns, at £5.75, were wrapped in a delicious smooth batter with hints of chives and Tarragon.

The starters varied in price from £5.25, for such delights as Garlic Spare Ribs, Steamed Mussels, Red Wine Chicken and Thai Fishcakes, to £6.75 for Orchid Platter for two or Vegetarian Platter for two.

To accompany our main course my friend Lindsay, who is more of a wine connoisseur than I, chose a crisp, dry white wine. She also selected Panang Chicken Curry at £8, and I chose the Tamarind Duck at £8.95.

The duck was so tender you could cut through it with a spoon, it was cooked to perfection, slightly pink, moist and succulent and seasoned with a crumbly mouthful of crunchy spice. The Tamarind sauce was piquant and so tasty with a sprinkling of spring vegetables floating tantalisingly in the golden jus.

Lindsay said: "There was exactly the right amount of spiciness in my Chicken Panang Curry, the meat was tender and full of delicate flavours. The whole meal was generally wonderful.''

I also had a taste of her curry, and it had that deceptively innocent-looking creamy sauce splashed over generous chunks of chicken, but with a definite chilli kick.

We shared a Coconut Rice at £3 which was fluffy and fragrant and the perfect way to lap up the last of the Tamarind sauce, which was too good to leave.

Other main courses on offer included the traditional Red and Green Thai Curries, at £8, various chicken, pork, beef or duck dishes including Beef Oyster, Pork with Basil and Sweet ad Sour Chicken all again around the £8. There are a series of specials including Thai Stir-Fried Minced Beef (Kua Kling Neua) at £9.50, Sizzling Black Pepper Chicken (Gai Pad Prik Tai Dam) at £9, and Lamb Massaman Curry (Gang Massaman Gae) at £9.99.

Actually full replete we still could not resist having a peek at the desert menu which included such scrummy confections as Coconut Supreme (Maphraw Sungsud) which is served in a real coconut shell. Ferrero Roche Glass (Ferrero Roch Kaew), Fantastica (Cintnakar) which is whipped milk and caramel ice cream with chunks of toffee, and almonds all at £4.50 and the traditional lychees at £3.99.

We finally opted for liqueur coffees which came with real fresh cream spooned across filter coffee with Irish whiskey in mine and Tia Maria in Lindsay's. Totally lush! The whole meal including drinks came to £65.15.

The term eastern promise is often applied to food, music and entertainment but in this case the Thai Orchid more than fulfilled its promise so take that step into the Orient.

Thai Orchid

133-134 Victoria Road,

Old Town,

Swindon SN1 3BU

Telephone 01793 480800

Open: Monday to Saturday noon to 2.30pm and 6pm to 11pm.

Takeaway service available