Pacing down Wood Street towards Old Town Thai I couldn’t help craving the punchy Thai flavours which have left such an indelible mark on British tastebuds over the years.

There’s a certain magic to balancing the aromatic flavours of lemongrass, ginger and chilli, with hot, sweet and sour, all in one dish - and I was eager to get my fix at one of Swindon’s favourite Thai restaurants.

There’s a waft of incense when I enter and I’m greeted by my friendly and serene host who finds me a nice corner for the evening. Gold lanterns hang low over the small wooden tables which line the front of the restaurant and Buddha statues smile down on the table of two opposite. A blue elephant incense burner grins at me while being lit by one of the attentive staff.

Compared with Thai restaurants in Bristol, who like to imitate the hustle and bustle of food vendors in Bangok to cater for the western love of street food, it’s a welcome change of pace.

The simple menu offers a good selection of starters and soups, served with chicken, prawns or vegetables. Alongside the noodle dishes, which come with rice or egg noodles, there’s an authentic and unusual set of cold salads, served with a choice of marinated duck, beef or chicken. For the more adventurous there’s a list of chef’s specials, including steamed sea bass (pla nueng Manao £14.95) and duck curry with pineapple and grapes (gaeng pet yaang £10.95).

To try out the classics I go for one of Thailand’s national dishes, tom yum soup (£6.25), a hot and sour broth traditionally eaten to warm up the palate. When it comes it delivers a medicinal hit of lemon grass and chilli - perfect for clearing the sinuses - with thin slices of fiery galangal and tender king prawns. Feeling slightly red in the face I take a healthy gulp of my coconut juice (1.95).

I also can’t help going for the dim sum (£5.75), although not commonly eaten in Thailand, they are delicate and squidgy, the semi-translucent parcels stuffed with pork and served with a tangy yet sweet dipping sauce.

As I finish the first course the restaurant is beginning to fill up with groups. An older couple sit next to me who tell me they come here regularly.

More hungry looking people arrive and go into the back of the restaurant which hosts bigger groups and parties; it can only be a good sign for a mid-week evening.

Next I opt for that western favourite, the phad thai (£8.95). One of Thailand’s national dishes, it is said it was popularised in the 1930s and ‘40s during World War Two. The Government even supplied a basic recipe to people and encouraged vendors to sell the new dish from mobile carts in an effort to reduce the consumption of rice, Thailand being heavily dependent on its rice exports at the time.

As stir-fried noodles, you can either choose from chicken or prawns. It may look simple but it’s a tricky dish to get perfect if ever tried at home. Even Gordon Ramsay got in hot water for his attempt in 2009, much to the amusement of anyone who’s seen him blasting expletives at chefs on TV around the world.

When it arrives the rice noodles, crowned with a lattice pancake, are sticky but hold their own shape. Pieces of tender chicken are buried underneath and the whole dish bursts with so much umami to make me grin back at my elephant friend.

Sat next to the carved mango there are little piles of chilli and palm sugar with a slice of lemon to season it how you like.

It easily beats the version I’ve tried to cook myself at home - which involved me breaking the egg straight into the wok and eating what was essentially a noodle omelette - and a clear winner so far.

So absorbed by the pad thai I completely forget I ordered a som tum salad (£7.50) of grated papaya. It encapsulates the basic principles of Thai food, creating a perfect balance of heat, sweet, sour and bitter. It’s tangy and refreshing, being bathed in a sugary lime dressing with fresh red chillies sprinkled over, which aren’t for the faint-hearted.

I couldn’t help be impressed with the smoothness of the service, the two waitresses smiling, composed and precise, as well as the delicately presented food which delivered the big flavours I had been hoping for.

Together with the calm and easy-going atmosphere I can see why it’s made a name for itself amongst Old Towners and people from further afield.