Calne's Lansdowne Strand has a new look

The iconic Lansdowne Strand, a historic hotel and former coaching inn standing in the heart of Calne, has regained its former glory following a major renovation.

The substantial hotel, in Calne’s Heritage Quarter, has now enhanced its credentials further with an award of three AA stars, and an entry in the prestigious Trencherman’s Guide.

Now in its 26th year, described by restaurateur and Chef Rick Stein as “a guide with teeth,” it celebrates extraordinary food in extraordinary settings, and contains over 160 restaurants.

It is the first time a venue from Calne has been included and is another landmark achievement for managers Joel and Anna Lear, who took over the running of the Arkells Brewery owned hotel less than two years ago.

Joel Lear, who is also head chef, said they were delighted with the award and the entry in the guide

“This shows just how far we have come since taking over,” Anna added.

The grade II listed hotel, owned by Arkell’s Brewery, has a distinguished history dating back centuries – but in recent years the place had become run down and neglected. On their first visit to the Lansdowne Strand, Anna said at first it had seemed gloomy and unpromising.

“It was the summer of 2016, three weeks before starting the renovation,” she said. “It seemed full of dark colours. But the worse it seemed, the more I wanted it. I felt so sorry for it.”

The hotel stayed open all through the revamp, which saw it transformed into a light, open and elegant venue – one which has a distinctly bright, comfortable contemporary feel while retaining a sense of its historic past.

Decorated in pale tones, with comfortable leather sofas in the lounge, it also has exposed beams and bare stone, old black and white photographs of Calne’s past, and even quirky historical ornamental objects, such as the huge clocking-in machine used in the Harris factory which once stood on the other side of the road.

A long dining room runs along with front of the hotel, with a breakfast room and a snug bar, complete with tall wood-panelled walls and an open fire. The hotel has 25 bedrooms, which are proving popular with leisure and business visitors.

The inn is reckoned to date back to the 16th century and was rebuilt in the early 18th century. It was known as the Catherine Wheel - an inn of this name was first mentioned in Calne in 1660. A carriage arch was built in around 1748 to allow coaches into the rear yard. By 1764 the building reached its current length. It was renamed the Lansdowne Arms in honour of the Marquess of Lansdowne, who owned Bowood.

The history of the building is still evident in its complex architecture. You can still see the old cobbled yard behind the pub, with its range of coach houses, former stables and an old three-storey brewery. Hidden away in the old buildings is a well, and underneath the hotel, old vaulted cellars. Plans for the future include developing some of the outer buildings and the court yard area.

Joel and Anna both have wide experience within the hospitality industry. Anna grew up in Wroughton and worked at the Bell in Sapperton as assistant manager, in Bath at the Circus Restaurant, and as manager at Graze Bath.

Joel grew up in Devon and became a chef aged 16, working in a hotel in a small village near Taunton. Later he moved to Oxford and worked in Gee’s for three years, where he trained. Joel also worked in a traditional French restaurant in Chamonix, France.

“It was a good experience,” he recalled. “I learnt classic French cookery, and foundation dishes – proper sauces, soups and stocks. French food is quite luxurious.”

Joel returned to Exeter for a year, then worked in the Cherwell Boathouse in Oxford, where he became head chef after three years. Another year on, and he left for Sapperton, looking for a new challenge. Here he met Anna. They both moved to the King William in Bath, where Anna was assistant manager and Joel was chef.

Joel said the focus there was different – with an emphasis on British cooking.

“The menu was also very seasonal,” he said. “It was the first time I’d worked strictly with the seasons. We would not even use tomatoes out of season, and we used a local greengrocers’. That’s something I have stuck with here, too.”

The couple were approached by Arkell’s with a view to taking on the running of the Lansdowne Arms – and they relished the chance to take the helm.

“It was great to have the freedom to make a business and to build a reputation,” Joel said.

They created a lounge menu and an a la carte dinner menu, with a focus on locally sourced and seasonal food. They buy pork from free-range producers Buttle Farm in nearby Compton Bassett, and vegetables from Heritage Fine Foods in Bromham. Joel describes their style as modern British, using techniques to bring out the best in each individual ingredient.

“It’s about the season, about textures, about what flavours work together, and about balanced dishes,” he explained.

A la carte starters have included seared ox tongue with walnuts, salsify, fresh horse radish and capers, or confit salmon with fennel marmalade, pickled kohlrabi, smoked cod’s roe and soda bread. One recent main course is roast rack and slow cooked breast of lamb with rosemary potatoes, carrot puree, caramelised parsley root and cavolo nero, or homity pie with red chicory, celery and apple salad, horseradish Chantilly and toasted seeds.

“We can accommodate vegan diets, though it would be good to have some notice if you want a vegan meal,” he said.

All the breads, ice cream, mayonnaise and sauces are made in the Lansdowne kitchen.

“When coming here I wanted to bring a fresh approach to the food offering. We have traditional dishes but by linking up with local and regional suppliers we have been able to create an a la carte menu that rivals anything in the area. I am very proud of what the kitchen team have done in such a short time.”

To book, call 01249 812488 or email Lansdowne@arkells.com.