Mario's Italian Restaurant

7 Wood Street,

Old Town,

Swindon

SN1 4AN

Tel: 01793 531556

Email: mariosrestaurant@hotmail.co.uk

Opening hours: Monday to Wednesday: noon to 2pm and 6pm to 11pm.

Thursday to Saturday: noon to 2pm and 6pm to 11.30pm

Sunday: closed

As you walk down a narrow passage towards the brightly lit door of Mario's trattoria you are engulfed in the tantalising aromas of Sicilian dishes wafting from the kitchens.

Stepping through to the first floor of the restaurant you are very warmly welcomed, as only an Italian can, and offered the chance of drinks at the bar or to be escorted straight to your table.

The black granite topped bar sparkled in the twinkly lights as our gin and tonics were poured and we made our way down the stone flagged staircase to the dining room.

Mario's boasts that it is the oldest Trattoria in the town and judging by the gorgeous flag stones and stone arches this is absolutely not a modern replica.

Proudly displayed on the walls are brightly coloured Sicilian flags with sun, love and friendship represented by the three legs depicted on the outside. Over head hangs the traditional chianti bottles, and strings of fairy lights all giving a fiesta feel.

We were seated in one of the alcoves at a long narrow table covered with a crisp white tablecloth, so we could easily see all our fellow diners. Down the full length of the central aisle was a hen night, adding to the hustle and bustle of a party atmosphere, and at the surrounding tables were a mix of families, romantic couples and pals getting together for a fun dinner.

No-one was neglected or forgotten. Our funny, smiley waiter was attentive and quick to respond to a look, despite the full house, but never intrusive.

We settled back to choose our starters from the vast array on offer including Antipasto All Italiana, a selection of Italian cheeses and meats, at £8.50, Cacciotina In Carozza (V) which is a soft cheese fried in breadcrumbs with coleslaw and garlic mayonnaise, at £5.95 and Calzoncino, a pizza dough deep fried with mozzarella, olive oil, tomato and ham at £5.95.

I chose the Cocktail Di Gamberetti, at £6.95 and my friend the Funghi Dorati which is deep fried mushrooms in breadcrumbs served with garlic mayonnaise at £5.95.

Mine arrived with a waterfall of prawns in Mario's cocktail sauce tumbling from a bed of shredded lettuce, cucumber and tomato.

Lindsay said her mushrooms were crispy and not too greasy and the garlic mayonnaise, for those that like garlic, she knows I am not a huge fan, was delicate and piquant without being over powering.

And the main event, this took even longer to choose as there was so many tempting dishes at a range of prices. Amongst the dishes competing for our attention were Canestrelli San Giuseppe, scallops with cream, prawns and white wine, baked with cheese, at £22.95, Pollo Principessa, chicken breast in cream, mushroom and asparagus sauce with onions, at £13.95,

Cannelloni Vegetariana (V) pasta filled with spinach and ricotta, baked in the oven with tomato and béchamel, at £10.95 or Pizza Italia Proscuitto di, which has parma ham and mozzarella cheese topped with shavings of parmesan cheese and rocket at £13.95.

Finally, having sent the poor waiter away once, I settled on Bistecca Al Pepe Nero, a

Sirloin steak with black pepper, brandy and cream sauce at £18.95 and Lindsay went for the more traditional Spaghetti Bolognese in a classic Italian meat sauce, at £9.90, along with a side order of Garlic bread at £2.80.

She said the enormous bowl of spaghetti bolognaise was delicious with lashings of sauce, not always the case and she should know as it is one of her favourites. The only fly in the ointment so to speak was the Garlic bread which was a thick, chunky piece but a bit on the dry side.

My steak was really tender and smothered, just as I like it, in a delectable, rich, creamy pepper sauce, which had that hint of bite from the peppercorns and warmth from the brandy.

The steak was so big I had to ask for a doggy bag, it was too good to leave! The accompanying vegetables of cauliflower, broccoli and carrots were al dente, crisp, fresh and the perfect companion to soak up the sauce. The saute potatoes were golden and crispy on the outside and soft and fluffy on the inside.

The dessert menu was just a step too far, but looked enticing nonetheless, with the traditional Italian Tiramisu and Cassata sitting happily alongside the chocolate souffle and banoffee pie all at £5.50. We plumped for liquor coffees at £4.95 and they came freshly made, full of aroma, rich liquor and a generous collar of real cream poured on top to perfection, rounding off a bellissimo evening. 8/10 - Flicky Harrison