Reporter GILL HARRIS samples organic farmer Helen Browning’s produce at a packed new restaurant that offers ‘no-fuss’ dining

A HUNGER pang of excitement rumbled around food lovers in Swindon when it was announced that Helen Browning was coming to town.

Yes – that Helen Browning. She of organic produce fame and the wonderful Royal Oak at Bishopstone. Here, in Swindon.

The Chop House on Wood Street has taken over the erstwhile Bistro Les Chats for a period. But something tells me they’re here to stay, if our experience last Thursday night is anything to go by.

My friend and I arrived to a bustling atmosphere and a staff member apologising that the only table for two left was one of those high tables with tall stools. Not being very tall myself, they’re not my favourite things as you have to jump up, shuffle to get the stool in the right place and then you’re pretty much stranded. But the staff kindly moved us to a normal table as soon as it became available.

Tim Finney, Helen Browning’s partner, said ahead of the launch that this was going to be no-fuss, meat-based dining — and he wasn’t fibbing. The menu has starters, under the title ‘graze/fingers/forks’ which includes a meaty sharing board, a veggie one, mussels and a small portion of BBQ ribs.

The mains are labelled ‘knife and fork, usually; sometimes fingers’ and has a number of dishes from steaks to hot dogs to burgers and mac ‘n’ cheese. All honest, hearty fare.

We decided to share our dishes and kicked off with the mussel pot with garlic and white wine (£7).

It was a perfect sharing portion (I think I may have been a bit full if I’d tackled it alone), with plump, juicy mussels in a delicious sauce. So far so good.

Next came our mains — BBQ pork ribs with slaw and salad (£14) and a ‘superbowl’ of spinach, tomato, walnuts, halloumi, chia, pumpkin seeds, smoked mackerel, beetroot and quinoa (£11). Phew. That’s a lot of ingredients.

The ribs were divine — you only had to look at them and they fell apart, and each forkful melted beautifully in your mouth. Perfection.

As for the superbowl, the mackerel was good and the portion was generous, to say the least, but as my colleague said it was “too big, too many flavours fighting for attention” and the halloumi could have done with a grilling to give it a bit more oomph. But it was tasty nonetheless.

We were stuffed to the gills after our mains and couldn’t find room for pud (aka ‘to eat with spoons’ on the menu — a choice of sticky toffee pudding, cheesecake, chocolate brownie or ice cream at £7 each) and rested a while with the remains of our wine (£19.50 for the bottle).

Looking around the restaurant (still full and getting ever more boisterous) it was striking the number of men in there. Whole tables of ’em. In fact we counted and, including ourselves, there were only six women diners.

So it seems the big, meaty portions are going down well with the male population.

In line with Helen Browning’s ethos, all the meat comes from the organic farm out at Eastbrook and all the other produce comes from right-on producers across the region, so you’re assured of eating only the very best — and all served up with a friendly pinch of humour.

The restaurant has only been going little over a month and, given it was packed throughout the whole evening we were there, it has already proven a huge hit.

And it’s easy to see why. Our bill came to £51.50, which was reasonable given the size of the portions and the fact that the meat is organic — and we had a delicious bottle of wine to boot.

So Helen Browning’s Chop House is off to a flying start. Let’s hope it’s here to stay.

Helen Browning’s Chop House

19-21 Wood Street

Swindon SN1 4AN

Tel: 01793 527082

www.helenbrowningschophouse.co.uk

Parking: In nearby car park

Disabled access: Yes (but mention those high tables when booking)

Adver ratings:

Food: 9/10

Choice: 9/10

Decor: 10/10

Customer service: 9/10

Main courses: £10-£14

TripAdvisor rating: 4.5/5

  • To ensure the integrity of our reviews, all our critics dine as paying customers without the restaurant’s knowledge (unless otherwise stated). Photographs are taken at a later date. All views expressed are the personal opinion of the writer.