We are off to the circus tonight, and to add to the sense of occasion, making a first visit to the famous Rick Stein restaurant in Marlborough High Street.

Although it is only six o’clock, and we have booked a table in advance, we have to wait in a short queue to gain admittance – which says just how popular the place is. From the outside, the restaurant is imposing and elegant.

Located in Lloran House, with its contrasting pale walls and dark woodwork, with bow windows and the name Rick Stein painted over the door, the restaurant stands out without being in the slightest bit ostentatious. It doesn’t give much away about what goes on inside– often I have walked past and glanced into the windows without seeing much, so it is a pleasure to cross the threshold at last and to discover a surprisingly light interior, with pale walls, with accents of blue and grey, colours reminiscent of the sea, with which, of course, Stein is so closely associated.

And fish everywhere – a motif adorning the water jug, the menus, the pictures on the wall. Even the light fittings in the upstairs room feature a scallop shell. Before we’ve even begun to consider the menu, the waiting staff have made us very welcome. Polite and friendly without being fussy or intrusive, they make sure we are well taken care of.

Rick Stein is, of course, famous for his seafood cookery. A celebrity chef, prolific television presenter, based in Padstow in Cornwall, he has written books and runs a string of restaurants. The Marlborough restaurant opened nearly two years ago and has proved popular with diners.

There is a celebratory air in the upstairs room of the restaurant, as we dine alongside two family groups: people dressed up in beautiful clothes, with well behaved children joining in the dining extravaganza. We are swiftly served with water and fresh bread, and tantalising appetisers arrive – mine being slender slices of melon topped with tangy tomato dressed with oil.

For our starter we share a Panzanella (£6.50) – a Tuscan-style tomato and bread salad. The ingredients are fresh and tasty, with fine slices of onion and a dressing. It is plenty for two (with modest appetites) and we polish it off with enthusiasm. There are, of course, many fishy starters, such as tuna carpaccio and Moules Mariniere – and the family party on the table next to us clearly enjoy their stunning looking oyster appetiser.

Our main courses are Cornish hake, served with cannellini beans (£19), while I choose the roasted spring vegetables with beetroot hummus, quinoa and chilli (£12.95). Usually this would be served with Halloumi too, though I have asked to have it without.

The main courses include some Rick Stein classics, such as cod and chips, as well as some big-ticket choices such as a half lobster thermidor (£32.50).

My roasted vegetables are delicious. With beans, carrots and courgettes, perfectly cooked and bursting with taste and texture, I relish every bite. Such a dish could well be bland, but the hummus sings with flavour. It is rich and spicy; a real savoury delight and an illustration of just how stimulating vegan cookery can be.

My partner’s hake was tender and beautifully cooked, though surprisingly he did think it a little bland and – for a change - looked rather enviously at my highly flavoured dish.

I had a glass of house red with the meal – a French wine called Grenache Syrah Peyrasse. New to me, it was smooth and pleasant, a fine complement to the main course.

Time had flown and by the time we asked for the dessert menu, the circus was calling. I chose the orange sorbet (£2.50), and my partner had the Eton Mess (£6.95). Both were excellent. Sorbet is always a lovely fresh finish for a meal, and this was rich with a zingy natural orange flavour. The Eton Mess was its usual indulgent treat of cream and crunch, leavened with the tang of sweet strawberries.

Our server kindly brought us the bill with our desserts, so we could settle up and be on our way. The service was a key element of the experience at Rick Stein – they truly couldn’t have done more to make the occasion a special one.

While Rick Stein is at the more expensive end of the spectrum when it comes to local dining out, we made some careful choices, so with three courses, a glass of wine and an orange juice the bill came to £55. For the ambience of the place, the service and the quality of the ingredients and the menu, it’s a great venue for a special occasion.