The Yorkshire pudding is, in my opinion, the true star of any pub Sunday lunch.

Light, puffed up, crunchy on the outside with the tiniest bit of give left in the base.

I could eat them on their own, as I think was traditional in former times when they were served before the meal. I could eat them sweet – something I’ve not tried at home but definitely will.

And I want them with my roast when I’m eating out.

For some people – and some pubs – yorkies are ‘with beef only’ affair.

Totally unfair for the aficionado who wants a bit of crunch with their pork or lamb or chicken.

Such was the menu at the Masons Arms in Meysey Hampton – the recently crowned Good Pub Guide New Pub of the Year run by Swindon brewery Arkell’s.

Choosing what to have never takes long in my family, the crackling’s too much of a draw for my daughter (also a yorkie fanatic) and my wife (not so much). The boy always goes beef. Always.

I’m a die-hard roast beefer too but slow-cooked rolled shoulder of lamb? It’s a yes from me. First question I asked (and my daughter seconded) was can we have a Yorkshire pudding please.

Thankfully, the answer was yes.

While we waited in the quiet dining room – we were eating early – we took in the surrounds. Sunday papers (qualities, obvs) laid out, check, tasteful décor, check, candles too tempting for children not to touch, check. So far so good.

But as we were first in we didn’t wait too long for dinner. Usually a quick turnaround is the sign of a kitchen where not much is being cooked fresh – but not so for Sunday lunch – it’s all got to be ready to roll.

And the first thing that caught the eye was those Yorkshire puddings. They were huge, massive pillowy things the size of my five-year-old’s head. Big.

Sometimes this can mean they’re bone dry so disintegrate when you try and cut them up, but not these. They were just so, perfect for joining a bit of cauliflower cheese, roastie and lamb before being dredged through the gravy. Yum.

And the lamb? Soft and tender, a deceptively generous portion that fell apart at the gentlest touch.

My five-year-old went for the beef, which came pink (how he likes it).

And my daughter’s pork looked lovely, and came with a couple of bits of crackling (the second best thing about a roast - fat), and a whole baked apple.

I’ve not seen this before and made the plate look pretty with the pink-edged fruit bringing a bit of colour to a plate dominated by the brown of the gravy.

From the short puds list we had the chocolate brownie with chocolate ice cream. Too much chocolate? Nope, the brownie came melty in the middle and delicious.

And my wife went for the sticky toffee pudding with vanilla ice cream – a staple of the pub menu. Easy to get wrong. But this was a tasty one. Not heavy, drowning in sticky toffee sauce. Sweet to the point of giving you an instant headache. Spot on.

All told a good lunch. Was it the best we’ve ever had, no. Were we a little rushed, yes, all done and dusted in an hour with the last plate taken as my son tried to scrape the last atoms of melted chocolate ice cream off it.

But Meysey Hampton is a very pretty village indeed. And’s only 15 miles out of town, so if you find yourself heading for a day out in the wolds, give it a go.

And make sure you ask for a yorkie.