WHEN looking for a quick bite to eat in the town centre, The Crossing is my first port of call.

The food hub’s mix of big chains and little independents offers plenty of light lunches to tempt the tastebuds.

On this occasion, I was drawn to the dimly-lit rustic aesthetic of The Burger Priest, which promised ‘good honest burgers’ and ‘guaranteed Aberdeen Angus’.

A quick glance at Trip Advisor revealed a surprising difference of opinion from its customers.

Some showered the burgers with praise and gave glowing recommendations while others discussed their disgust and disappointment in great detail.

I wondered who I would end up agreeing with.

A friendly staff member caught me gawking at the menu board above the counter and handed me a leaflet version to peruse while he sorted out another customer’s order.

The High Priest Burger (£5.95) appeared to be their version of the Whopper or the Big Mac, with melted Monterey Jack cheese, burger sauce and all the toppings on six ounces of beef.

A wide range of choices included the simple Priest’s Cheeseburger (£4.95), two vegan options (same price) and spicy Vatican Specials like the Hellfire Burger (£6.25) with chorizo, jalapenos and melted Mexican cheese, and the Cajun Chicken Burger (£5.95) with Cajun-spiced chicken breast topped with cheese, lettuce, tomato, red onion, gherkin and spicy mayo.

I picked another of the specials, the Altar Burger (£5.95) beef burger with crispy sweetcure bacon, melted smoked cheese and salad garnish, then took a pew at one of the wooden booths with a faux-red velvet seat that looked more comfortable than it actually was.

During the 10-minute turnaround for my order, the two other customers there (I’d gone early to avoid the lunchtime rush and been a bit too successful)

The jokey religious theme implied by the fast food restaurant’s name seemed to only stretch no further than the names of the burgers and sides, which seemed like a waste of a brand idea.

Why not go a little further? Have the servers wear vicar’s collars, stick a halo over the logo, make the counter look like an altar, have discounts on Sundays, do something.

Ideas like these may explain why I’m not employed in the restaurant marketing industry.

Anyway, enough daydreaming, the server had delivered a paper bag full of food to my table so it was time to tuck in.

The burger’s size was generous and daunting in equal measure. The first question that sprang to mind was not ‘what does it taste like?’ but ‘how do I eat this without making a mess and/or unhinging my jaw?’

Slight squeezing and careful bites managed it, though at times I feared for its structural integrity as the odd slice of lettuce and onion fell out, landing in the container and creating a sort of mini-salad.

The double layers of Aberdeen Angus beef were well-cooked and flavourful, the bun was kept dry but still soft, the bacon was crispy and the cheese added a nice smokey texture to it all.

This satisfying burger had the edge over other fast food fare and was reasonably priced - £7 for this and a can of Diet Pepsi is a bit of a bargain.

Plus, the fries weren't overly-salted like they often are at McDonald's and Five Guys, though the portion was rather small.

My eyes had been drawn to the ice cream counter but the burger proved too filling to consider any sort of second course.

I left happy and already thinking about what to try next time.