The pies have it at country pub

THE season of mists and mellow fruitfulness in now on the cusp of melting into the grey gloom of full-on winter, but there is still time to enjoy all the fruits of the harvest.

So it was that a friend and I headed to the Cross Keys at Wanborough in search of tasty fare to warm the cockles. Move over salad, it’s time for winter warmers.

The pub has long been a favourite of mine, perfect for a glass of wine and a flick through the papers in the comfy and relaxing bar area after walking the dog at the weekend.

And on each visit I’ve noted that the elegant dining area has been bustling with enthusiastic diners and emitting the most delicious odours of food.

So I decided it was about time I actually went for a meal there.

We visited on a Tuesday evening and it was fairly quiet so without any delay the friendly assistant manager showed us to our table, furnished us with drinks and left us to coo over the menu, which was happily resplendent with autumn delights.

Wisely avoiding the temptation of nibbles while you decide — rustic bread with olive oil and balsamic or Sicilian olives in this case (never over-estimate your appetite, you’ll only be upset later when you have to leave something) — we imagined our way through dishes such as home-cooked honey-glazed Wiltshire ham with bubble and squeak, catch of the day in Wadworth beer batter and pan-fried sea bass with stir-fried chilli, ginger and sping onion.

Eventually after much dithering, a decision was made.

My friend started with game terrine with beetroot and horseradish chutney and rustic bread (£6.75) and she wasn’t disappointed.

Neither was I when I nicked a bit. Some terrines can be a bit lacklustre, but this one was brimming with layer upon layer of flavours and was complemented beautifully by the tang of chutney and the fresh, pillowy bread.

I chose the goat’s cheese mousse with pickled and pureed beetroot with apple and rocket (£6.50), a delicate, pretty little dish that was wonderfully light.

My only complaint would be that the sharpness of the beetroot slightly overpowered the subtle flavour of the creamy mounds of cheese. But that really is being picky.

So far so good — would the mains be able to match the high standard set so far? In a word, yes.

Continuing the autumnal onslaught of game and berries, I went for the confit duck leg with a port, blackberry and thyme sauce with dauphinoise potatoes and seasonal veg (£13.50).

The dish was a masterpiece of seasonal goodness, brimming with the flavour of hedgerows, the piquancy of the fruit cutting through the rich fattiness of the duck and the creamy headiness of the potatoes.

I feel, however, that my pal triumphed with her choice of pie of the day, on this occasion steak and ale, which rocked up with seasonal veg and creamy mash (£12.95).

The veggies and potatoes were perfect, but forget about them — let’s talk about that pie.

It was the best pie in the world. It was so good, the pal is still talking about it: “The pastry was so crisp and so, so buttery. And there was so much filling! And there was such a rich, juicy depth of flavour to the gravy and the meat was tender to the point it fell apart as soon as you touched it with your fork...”.

To be fair, the entire meal was absolutely delicious, but the pie really did steal the show.

A couple of glasses of wine and a couple of cokes brought the bill up to just over £60, which we thought very reasonable for the amount and quality of food.

If the Cross Keys’ autumn menu is typical of their standards, I can’t wait to go back and try the winter one. And the spring one. And then it’d be rude not to give the summer one a go too... this really could be a pub for all seasons.

The Cross Keys

Wanborough

5 Burycroft, Wanborough SN4 0AP

Tel: 01793 790 302

crosskeyswanborough.com

Parking: Yes, plenty in the pub’s private car park

Disabled access: Yes

Adver ratings:

Food: 9.5/10

Choice: 10/10

Decor: 10/10

Customer service: 10/10

Main course prices: £9.95-£13.50

TripAdvisor rating: 4/5