I’VE lived in Swindon my whole life, but until recently I’d only ever been to the Brewers Arms for Sunday lunch.

The classy Wanborough pub has always been my family’s go-to place for Sunday celebrations. Mothers Day? Let’s have a roast at The Brewer’s. Anniversary? Can’t beat those Brewer’s Yorkshire puds. Big birthday? What better than a slap-up Sunday dinner to feed the whole family?

Friends frequently tell me the tapas nights are a sensation, but I never actually got around to trying them. Heck, my son even worked there as a waiter for a stint, but still I only ever popped in to see him during his Sunday shift.

So when some relatives from out of town arrived for a weekend in sunny Swindon, I thought it was about time we ventured out of our comfort zone – well, out of Old Town anyway – and gave the Brewer’s a try on a Friday night instead.

Such is the popularity of the Sunday lunch that we always book several weeks in advance to be sure of a table and I thought it was best to do the same this time. There wasn’t really any need.

Whether it was the winter chill keeping people away or the length of time until pay day, there was only us and two other tables of customers in the dining area, which made the atmosphere a little flat.

With 16 main courses to choose from on the menu, plus another half-a-dozen chalked on the special boards, there was plenty to take in as we all debated what to choose.

For me, one dish leapt out of the menu and after deliberating over everything else (I am a Libran, after all) I went back my first choice of cod loin wrapped in prosciutto (£13.95) with grilled asparagus and a lemon and caper cream. The thick cut of fish wrapped in salty ham was a beautiful combination and the rich sauce added a decadent creaminess to the dish. It came with a heap of sauté potatoes and vegetables and made for a satisfying meal.

My other half looked to the specials board for his choice of oven-baked chicken breast topped with tomato, parma ham and mozzarella (£12.95) but sadly he didn’t think it was all that special at all. He went as far as to say he’s had better from our kitchen at home and that’s saying something – my culinary skills have never earned me much praise. The dish looked dry and just rather average, and we all felt it wasn’t really worth the price tag.

I’m glad to say the two meals across the table from us got a better reaction. One had the homemade steak and ale pie (£11.95), which was cooked with mushrooms, roasted onions and carrots and wrapped in puff pastry. The portion was satisfying and the pieces of steak rich and succulent; the addition of chunky chips, onion gravy and vegetables went down well too.

The fourth member of the party opted for chicken fajitas (£14.95), which arrived sizzling on their skillet with plenty of filling for the three tortillas, plus side dishes of sour cream, guacamole, salsa and cheese. It was spicy and tasty and as good as fajitas can be, but to my mind rather overpriced for a dish which can be cooked for a few pounds at home.

I was too full for dessert but the other three were tempted by waffles with vivid green mint ice cream and chocolate sauce (£5.50), plum crumble tart with clotted cream (£4.95) and a cheese board (£6.50), all huge portions and all of which disappeared to the sound of satisfied ‘mmms’ and ‘ahhhs’ around the table.

With a bottle of wine and other drinks, our bill came to well over £100, so it wasn’t the cheapest of nights out, and contrary to what I’d been looking forward to, the meals were somehow lacking the wow factor.

Good, yes. Filling, definitely. But outstanding and worth the taxi fare to and from Old Town? Hmmmm, probably not.

Not that that will make any difference next time there’s a family milestone to mark.

Those Sunday lunches are a sensation and we won’t be tempted elsewhere.