MICHELLE TOMPKINS tunes in to a Radio 2 sort of evening in a cosy little pub that serves top notch grub

IT'S been a fair few years since I gave up any pretence of youth; since my radio dial inched clockwise to leave behind the crash and thump and inane chatter of Radio One to settle on nice, safe, middle-of-the-road Radio Two.

As a teenager I remember wondering how anyone could possibly prefer the dull drone of Terry Wogan to the sparky banter of Mike Read - how I'd have to be on my deathbed to be listening to The Carpenters over the latest single by The Cure.

But time and therefore age have a funny way of creeping up on us all, and tastes invariably shift as the years go by. It must be 15 years since I started dabbling with my choice of breakfast show host, and 12 since I decided Radio One's raucous sound was no longer for me.

"What on earth is this noise?" I recall asking my son one day... my cue that the transition was more complete than I liked to admit. The very next day the dial was shifted for good.

What's all this got to do with food? Well, it occurred to me that The Crown at Broad Hinton is best described as a pub for Radio Two listeners. I don't mean that to sound derogatory - far from it. They certainly don't preclude people from walking through the door unless they are wearing slippers and humming Coldplay. Under 40s ARE still allowed.

But just as Nandos is mostly frequented by teenagers and young people with rips in the knees of their jeans, this kind of pub is mostly geared towards people of a certain age, who would sew up the knees of those jeans if they were allowed.

And just as I fail to see the attraction of a choice between chicken covered in peri-peri sauce or... ermm... chicken covered in peri-peri sauce, I'm sure others would fail to see the attraction in driving out to the countryside on a cold January evening to sit in a quiet but cosy pub, eating dishes prepared fresh to order and making low-key conversation.

In short, if you are middle-aged and like a decent plate of grub, this is the place for you.

We had our pick of the tables on the Thursday night we arrived, the post-Christmas slump and Dry January no doubt keeping a fair few people at home, so we settled into a corner and took in our surroundings.

Exposed beams and a natty wallpaper printed with pheasants and other game birds (none of which were on the menu, tactfully) were the key features that struck us, along with a general feeling of friendliness from the staff and inclusivity from the regulars.

Tracks by Adele and Diana Ross (Radio Two fodder through and through) tinkled in the background.

The menu isn't vast and there were a few specials on offer to supplement it, but in the end we decided to stick with the sheet in front of us, opting for starters of sundried tomato, pine nut and pesto tartlets (£6.25) and salmon and prawn Thai fishcakes (£6.95) and mains of chicken supreme and garlic mash with artichoke hearts and chorizo (£12) and pork fillet with a mustard and herb crust (£12.50).

The first course was fairly quick to arrive and we were impressed with the neat, concise presentation. My fishcakes were more like fish balls, but each of them was packed with a punch of spring onion, ginger and chilli. A homemade chilli jam added a follow-up punch, but in the nicest possible way. The little pesto tartlet was clearly homemade too, the pastry crumbling under my partner's fork. He said it was light and delicious and a great way to stave off hunger while waiting for the mains.

Our main dishes took a little longer to arrive but I always try to see that as a positive sign that they are being cooked to order. They certainly looked that way when they were placed on the table, both steaming hot and arranged in a chef-y stack to be visually appealing.

The chicken supreme came with a pastry crust and sat in a creamy sauce, flecked with deep pink chorizo and chunks of artichoke. My partner - more a peas and broccoli man when it comes to veg - discovered a newfound appreciation of artichoke, thoroughly enjoying the whole meal and polishing the plate clean.

My thick cylinder of pork fillet was rolled in a fiery, crunchy crumb of mustard and herbs, accompanied by baby leeks, sarladaise potatoes (fried in garlic) and a rich mustard sauce. The flavours combined beautifully, the tang of the mustard offset by the cream in the sauce. There was far too much meat for me, but I had a helping hand from the other side of the table and we both agreed it was the perfect pub dish - too fancy to bother with at home, but not so fancy as to be unfulfilling.

To be honest we had only the briefest of glances at the dessert menu before ruling it out for the sake of our stomachs.

Our bill (£48.25) was delivered by the landlord, who stopped by for a chat. Turns out he and his other half have given up their hectic life in London for a sleepy village one and - despite appearing more Nandos generation than middle-aged - are loving the slower pace of life.

As we headed off into the night, there was only one choice for listening on the 15-minute trip home. I was driving after all, and Jo Whiley presents a lovely little show on Radio Two on Thursday nights....

The Crown

Broad Hinton, Swindon SN4 9PA

Tel: 01793 731302

www.thecrownatbroadhinton.co.uk

Parking: Yes

Disabled access: Yes

Adver ratings

Food: 8/10

Choice: 8/10

Decor: 8/10

Customer service: 9/10

Main course prices: from £10.95 to £16.50

TripAdvisor rating: 4.5/5