Magical Marrakech

BECOMING contentedly lost among the tangle of winding streets in the seething heart of Old Marrakech while admiring lanterns, silks, copperware, tribal jewellery, carpets, inlaid cedar boxes and other exotic items is virtually unavoidable while visiting the “city of souks.”

You have to plunge in, soak up its dizzy charm, wholeheartedly embrace the Arabian-African vibe and allow yourself to be carried along by the sheer energy of the place before wearily emerging a few hours later… in all likelihood with an armful of trinkets.

It can be tough but rewarding work; and if you are not the sort of person who can cope with the hard sell of its often noisy, exuberant and persuasive traders – traits usually tempered with big dollops of humour, it has to be said – then you better stick to that relaxing beach holiday.

On one occasion I was harangued by a vendor waving a ceremonial knife under my nose. “It’s yours sir – just 250 dirhams (£18),” he persisted. “Great but no thanks,” I responded. About ten minutes and several hundred yards later he’d worn me down. I ended up with two of the things – which I only half fancied, anyway – for 100 dirhams (£7.) By way of a parting shot he boomed, somehow combining a scowl with a grin “you’ve robbed me sir.” You can’t win. But it’s all in the game.

Contained within 12 miles of towering red sandstone walls that date back 900 years, the ancient fortified city retains a timeless albeit manic Moroccan charm; you get the feeling that life within this huge, mazy medina has undergone relatively few changes over the centuries.

Tourism dominates proceedings in the central souks – the narrow, mostly covered lanes where the shops and stalls are brimming Aladdin Cave-like with fabrics, fashions, perfumes and all manner of interesting, shiny items reflecting the heritage, culture and art of North Africa’s Berber people.

Wandering around them is endlessly fascinating: without warning you find yourself gazing at some magnificently carved wooden door – possibly concealing a centuries-old garden – or admiring the intricately patterned archway of a mosque.

Feeling a tad adventurous? Then head away from the centre of the medina (which is Arabic for ‘old city’) into its swarming suburbs.

Here you will become hopelessly entangled in a clattering throng of motor-cycles, donkey-drawn carts and pushers of heavily-loaded wooden barrows as the people of Marrakech go about their business.

Respite arrives in the form of the medina’s cafes and restaurants that are liberally dotted along its winding streets.

If you fancy refreshment of an alcoholic nature – an icy glass of Flag or Casablanca beer is highly recommended – then trawl up a few flights of stairs to a growing number of terraced bars or licensed restaurants.

Hire a bong, if you must.

The epicentre of Marrakech – its very heartbeat – is Jemna el Fna Square, “a masterpiece of the oral and intangible heritage of humanity” according to its World Heritage inscription.

To describe the former place of public execution as lively and colourful would be a gross understatement. Here you will encounter snake charmers, fortune tellers, dancing troupes, peddlers of potions, magicians, musicians, open-air dentists...

You want a set of false teeth? Look no further.

Our oasis of calm

“THIS way” grinned the cheery porter as he wheeled a cart containing our modest luggage through a Moorish archway into the noisy, winding maze of predominantly pink and yellow coloured mud-brick lanes and alleys.

He was rattling along at a fair old pace and amidst the constant distractions of daily life in hectic, buzzing Marrakech we had to focus on keeping apace as he vanished down one passageway into another.

Deeper and deeper we delved into a labyrinth of narrowing walkways before he suddenly drew to halt, rapped on an impressive, ornately-carved wooden door and announced that we had arrived.

As it swung open the affect, to use a well-worn but nevertheless apt phrase, was jaw-dropping. This was our riad – home for the next three days in the very middle of one of the world’s most vibrant walled cities.

From the relative gloom of the derb (Moroccan for alley) we were ushered into a palatial, spacious and airy courtyard complete with a plunge pool, drapes, potted plants and trees which seemed to sprout from nowhere.

An oasis of calm and comfort amidst the hubbub, cacophony and ever present banter of a thronged Marrakech souk – and five minutes from the famous Jemna el Fna Square – it was a startling experience.

It felt as if we had stumbled into an exotic home of a wealthy sultan from a bygone age – only with Wi-fi and air-con!

Built in the 18th Century as a luxurious mansion, Riad el Zohar has been expensively and tastefully transformed into a boutique hotel which has retained many of its original features.

A first floor balcony, with finely decorated railings, overlooks the pool-cum dining/breakfast area which has been liberally adorned with expensive sculptures, wood carvings and other objets d’art.

Among its many nooks and crannies are just five rooms, each individually and distinctively decorated; ours was the Ourika Room.

Head on up the stairs, three floors above the madding crowd and there is another surprise – a spectacular terraced roof with seating areas that offer glorious views.

Looming larger than life above a sea of roof-tops pierced with minarets are the crags, peaks and slopes of the ever present Atlas Mountains, conveniently and photogenically sprinkled in snow for our delectation.

• A three night short break to Riad el Zohar costs from £160 pp (B&B, two sharing) including return private transfers from Marrakech airport.

   

  Call 020 7112 0019 (www.fleewinter.com).