Lapping it up

For three, bone-chillingly cold evenings, Lapland’s lady of the night stood me up.

Aurora Borealis, the Roman goddess of dawn, had lured me deep into the heart of icy Finland with the promise of a show the like of which I had never seen before. But each time I ventured out from my cosy log cabin, wrapped up like a polar explorer against the -22C cold, all I could see was a deep black sky, lit up with countless sparkling diamonds.

With my neck aching from gazing upwards and my face numb against the Arctic breeze, I was ready to call it a night.

But then, to my left, a swirl of green emerged from the blackest part of the sky like some mystical voluminous curtain. My jaw dropped. A few flickers of green danced across the sky, reflected in the snow-covered pine trees, and then disappeared just as soon as they had come.

My brief encounter was one of several magical moments in a four-day trip to Levi, a winter wonderland just over 100 miles inside the Arctic Circle in northern Finland.

I had come with my wife to fulfil one of her dreams and meet the real Father Christmas.

A healthy helping of snow set the scene nicely and, after being kitted out with enough Arctic clobber to have kept polar explorer Ranulph Fiennes warm and toasty, we made the short journey from Kittila Airport – a three-hour flight from East Midlands – to lovely Levi. Each winter, the Levi locals adorn their trees – both inside and out – with thousands of fairy lights, giving the town a look that has been mirrored in countless Christmas cards.

Many head to Levi for skiing and snowboarding, with a well-lit downhill ski run dominating the skyline. Levi Fell is the largest ski resort in the country, with 43 slopes, and prides itself on catering for skiers of all ages and abilities. It also plays host to one of the World Cup events.

We joined our guide, Suvi, on a ride deep into the forest for a meeting with Aliya and her herd of magnificent reindeer. We clambered on to the back of a sleigh, snuggled up under an inviting blanket, and then watched in wonder as our reindeer led us through an enchanting wood that looked like a set from The Chronicles Of Narnia.

All we could hear was the gentle swish of the sleigh on the crisp snow and the jangle of reindeer bells as we wound our way through the snow-laden trees.

Then it was back to the owner’s house for a cup or two of warm berry juice and a fascinating talk about the reindeer and the ways of the Sami people, who have survived in the barren landscapes of the Arctic Circle for 4,000 years.

It set us up perfectly for our altogether more action-packed husky ride. I’d pictured a gentle meander through the frosty countryside, led by four or five cute, fluffy Siberian huskies. But the reality was somewhat different.

Martin, a weather-worn dogs man from northern Finland, introduced us to a boisterous, yelping collection of pure-bred huskies, before showing me how to operate the basic, yet sturdy sled.

“Whatever you do, don’t let go, even if you fall over,” commanded Martin, with a look that could have melted the snow. “My dogs are very precious to me.”

“Don’t worry, I won’t let you down,” I promised.

Then we were off, charging away from the dog kennels at breakneck speed. I battled to control the sled as it zigzagged, my right foot pressed firmly on the brake and my heart pounding. The pack of six dogs was unbelievably strong as they tried to catch Martin’s sled ahead of me.

Soon, we were out in the white wilderness, the dogs working as one, and the barking replaced by the soothing sound of the skis on ice. The Arctic chill was numbing my mouth, but I couldn’t help but let out an occasional ‘yee-ha!’ as we charged across the snow.

That evening, a special visitor arrived at our cabin, with his reindeer, Comet. An authentic-looking Santa told tales of how he had reduced a grandmother to tears of happiness that day, by bringing her Christmas dream to life. He’d also sang Finnish festive songs with some local children and handed out Christmas presents. It was a fitting end to a fairy-tale trip – and even the magical Aurora Borealis showed up before the night was over.

TRAVEL FACTS

 Sovereign Luxury Travel (0843 
770 4526, sovereign.com) offers a three-night Lapland experience from £1,374 per adult and £1,174 per child. 
It includes return flights from London Gatwick, three nights B&B in a traditional cabin, a private guide, excursions including husky sledging, snowmobile and a reindeer sleigh ride, a private meeting with Santa, a 
Lappish festive dinner and thermal clothing.