.. it’s a shame about the horses though. MICHELLE TOMPKINS tucks into a grand lunch on Grand National day

The Pig on the Hill

8 Devizes Road, Swindon, SN1 4BH

Tel: 01793 979226

I'VE never understood what all those TV chefs are talking about when they bang on about seasoning.

Sure, I whack a bit of salt and pepper into most things I cook at home, but I'm never really sure whether I've got the proportions right. And when Jamie or Hugh or James tastes a teaspoon of food then adds three more grains of salt before declaring 'perfection' I've always thought it was showmanship in the extreme.

But a recent visit to The Pig on the Hill has put the whole seasoning thing into perspective. I now know what it means to achieve that exquisite balance of salt versus pepper; an alchemy of condiments aligned to let the food sing and make flavours come to life in the mouth.

That, and that gambling is a mug's game. Let me explain...

It was the Saturday of Grand National day when we set off in search of a substantial lunch and somewhere to place our bets and watch the big race. The Pig on the Hill fit the bill perfectly, just a few doors down from a bookmakers and with enough TV screens dotted around as to be distracting on any other day.

I'd heard good things about the pub's chef and a quick glance at the 'winter menu' confirmed it was just what we were after - hearty food with a gastro twist, all posh burgers and fancy sausages, and plenty of it.

For a lighter lunch, I might have been tempted by the sandwich menu - the likes of tuna, chilli and coriander, or roast pork loin and apple sauce, all served with winter slaw and marinated olives for £4.95.

But with starters orders still 90 minutes (and two or three drinks) away, my eye was taken by the more substantial bar meals, and the 8oz rump steak in particular (£15.95).

I love a good steak, but it can be a hit and miss choice as there is nowhere to hide. Will it be cooked the way you've asked? Will the knife slide through the meat or will you have to saw through gristle? Will it be served with a sad spoonful of peas and oven chips, or sides more befitting of the quality of the meat?

There was nothing to worry about here. The fat steak came oozing its medium rare juices, with a grilled field mushroom and a row of crunchy green beans alongside, and - praise the Lord! - big, fat, real chips, piled in a Jenga tower.

But what struck me more than anything was that every element on that wooden board was perfectly seasoned - I mean, noticeably seasoned, visually and tastewise - so as to heighten the flavours but not detract. The chips were slightly saltier than the rest, the mushroom a touch more peppery, the steak and beans a blend of both. It was, in short, the best steak I can remember eating, and I can only attribute that to the chef's skilled use of the salt and pepper pots.

As I oohed and aahed my way through my meal, my partner was doing the same with his on the other side of the table. The Pig on the Hill pork and beef burger was his choice (£12.95), and arrived as a spectacular sky-high stack pinned with a skewer for stability, with homemade slaw, relish and fries on the side. While skinny fries are an antithesis to me, he is a fan and enjoyed his meal every bit as much as I did.

Pleasantly full, we sat back and settled in for the racing, congratulating ourselves on a great choice of venue.

Which is more than I can say for our choice of horses, which cost us almost as much as the food... without any of the pleasure. MICHELLE TOMPKINS