Despite fearing all things equine, MICHELLE TOMPKINS ventures into the New Forest

HIPPOPHOBIA, they call it. Not the fear of the African mammal fond of wallowing in mud, but the irrational fear of hoofed animals like horses, donkeys or mules.

For as long as I can remember, I've been afraid of all things equine. I've never ridden a horse, nor even petted one, and have no desire to; while not a phobia exactly, I have a natural aversion to anything that is bigger than me, with more teeth and an air of unpredictability.

So as a herd of wild horses came stampeding towards me across the heathland near Lyndhurst(okay, there were two, and it might have been described as a canter), I did have to wonder why I had ventured into the New Forest - where the ponies roam freely around the villages - for my second visit this year. And this time without the safety of a car windscreen to view them through.

The answer is simple. The New Forest National Park is one of the most stunning landscapes in the UK - not that I was fully appreciative of its beauty as I cowered behind a bush - and it's virtually on our doorstep, just 80 minutes or so from Swindon. Ponies or no ponies, it's an undeniably beautiful part of the world. Just don't expect me to appreciate the wildlife at close range.

My friend Claire, however, has no such aversion to creatures great or small. Just call her Mary Poppins. And so it was a very slow walk as we set out through Lyndhurst and into the countryside beyond as she stopped to stroke and nuzzle every pony, while I stood by nervously with the camera.

Lyndhurst is the 'capital' of the New Forest and attracts thousands of visitors every year, sometimes seemingly all at once. It was a chilly Saturday when we were in town and we were able to see the place at its best, browsing the quaint little gifts shops and stopping for refreshment without having to battle through the crowds.

The various Alice in Wonderland references in the town, such as the Mad Hatter Tearooms, can be explained by a resident of the churchyard - for most of her life, Alice Pleasance Liddell lived in and around Lyndhurst, the same Alice that provided the inspiration for the Lewis Carroll classic. After her death, Alice was cremated and her ashes were buried in the graveyard of the town's St Michael & All Angels Church, where her memorial stone can be found today.

Another literary great, Sir Arthur Conan Doyle, is also buried nearby in Minstead Churchyard and is rumoured to have spent time working on his famous Sherlock Holmes novels at Bartley Lodge - once the home of geologist Charles Lyell, now a country house hotel and our base for the weekend.

Originally built as an 18th century hunting lodge, the 40-room hotel retains a sense of history, with wood panelling lining the walls, the obligatory grand fireplace and crystal chandeliers sparkling overhead. No surprise then that it's become a favourite with couples looking for a little grandeur for their wedding day, and the weekend we were there was no exception.

In our walking boots and waterproofs, we couldn't help feeling like the worst-dressed guests in the world as the wedding party mingled among us in their finery. No one seemed to bat an eyelid, but it was a relief when we managed to escape to our room to make ourselves more presentable for dinner - we were, after all, playing a bit part in someone's else big day.

Dinner is something special at Bartley Lodge and guests can choose to take it in either the AA Rosette-recognised Crystal Restaurant, the light and airy Orangery or, on warmer evenings, out on the sunny terrace overlooking the gardens.

I went for lemon and gin cured salmon gravadlax to start (£5), a vibrant plate of orange salmon, purple beets and vivid green watercress. The promise of wasabi meringue was what drew me to the dish in the first place and I wasn't disappointed. The tiny sugary drops were tinged with a fiery hit of wasabi, making for a curious but exciting flavour combination.

The choices for vegetarian Claire were more limited, but she was pleasantly surprised when the simply-named spring salad (£4.50) turned out to be far more than a pile of iceberg. The delicate plate was strewn with nettles, dotted with a bright pepper puree, and decorated with beautiful slices of watermelon radish.

My main course of pork tenderloin (£15.95) was just as pretty to look at and even better to eat. The meat was plentiful and boosted by the addition of braised cheeks; with dauphinoise potato, carrots, apple puree and a black pudding fritter alongside, it was a very satisfying meal.

Claire's choice of spinach and ricotta tortellini (£7.50) went down just as well, with the plump pillows of pasta crammed full of flavour.

We ummed and ahhed (briefly) over dessert but decided they sounded too good to miss. My glazed lemon tart (£5) came with a scoop of lime sorbet and a ginger and vanilla syrup, while her dark chocolate fondant (£5.50) oozed satisfyingly across the plate and into the accompanying honeycomb and poppy seed and yoghurt sorbet. Delicious.

By that time in the evening the wedding disco was in full swing and - after a bottle of crisp sauvignon blanc between us - the temptation to crash it was strong. A blast of Come On Eileen had us shimmying past the doorway and peering in, but we decided to behave and crash in our room instead, far enough away for the noise not to be a nuisance.

It had been a tiring day, fuelled by fresh air, good food and, for me, the sheer adrenaline of fear, and we didn't even stir when the bride and groom came up to their room next door. Presumably it had been a tiring day for them too.

PANEL

Michelle Tompkins was a guest of Bartley Lodge Hotel, Old Lyndhurst Road, Southampton.

Prices start from £128 for bed and breakfast for an overnight stay for two, and from £170 for dinner, bed and breakfast.

To book or for more information see https://www.newforesthotels.co.uk/bartley-lodge-hotel/ or call 02380 812248.

See www.thenewforest.co.uk for ideas of things to do in the area.