Brighton's a hub of activity day and night

To our left and in stark contrast, its once bitter rival The Palace Pier bustles with life, its busy roller coasters ferrying screeching passengers high over the coastline at presumably terrifying speeds.

Meanwhile, ships bobble on the horizon of a calm English Channel, seagulls squawk, joggers huff and puff along the promenade while pooches of countless shapes and sizes enjoy a leisurely stroll with their owners.

I am sipping a glass of wine in the conservatory of The Grand Hotel at Brighton, watching the world go by while families at nearby tables indulge in the time honoured English tradition of afternoon tea and cakes.

Entering The Grand half-an-hour earlier, it was hard not to be impressed.

With its gleaming creamy white Italian Renaissance style façade, ornate balconies, arched lobby entrance, polished pillars and sparkling chandeliers, it is everything you would expect from a hotel regarded by many as a Grand Old Lady of the South Coast.

Indeed, if you enter the words ‘The Grand’ on Google, this particular establishment comes up first, followed by similarly named hotels at Leeds, Wolverhampton, Scarborough and Eastbourne – trailed by the Grand Canyon and the Grand National.

Normally we would hop into an elevator with our luggage. But it being so august and imposing we decided to take The Grand’s decidedly stately and sweeping staircase.

Admittedly our room was only on the second floor and alas, we didn’t require the use of all 123 steps – but I am sure we would have ascended the lot of them had we been staying on the sixth!

Our room had a panoramic view of the sea and Brighton’s pebbly beach – once the scene of riotous Easter squabbles between Mods and rockers – along with a sumptuous bath which was so big it took about half-an-hour to fill up, with the taps full on.

We had arrived in good spirits, having left Swindon less than a couple of hours earlier and miraculously escaped anything resembling a tailback on the M25, which called for an immediate celebratory drink in the conservatory bar.

We were in Brighton for the weekend as Swindon Town were playing the Seagulls (and beat ’em, ha ha) but also because it is simply a great little city in which to spend a couple of days.

It is hard to think of another so called seaside resort which buzzes as much as Brighton, regardless of the time of year or the weather.

Brighton is not without elements of seaside tack but boasts a cool, bohemian feel, partly as a result of a thriving student community, combined with elegant architecture from the Georgian and Victorian eras, along with a host of classy shops and restaurants.

Among other things (The Royal Pavilion, Graham Greene’s Brighton Rock, The Who’s Quadrophenia) Brighton is famous for The Lanes, a largely pedestrianised network of narrow streets packed with a colourful, sometimes quirky independent shops, cafes and bars.

It began life as a fishermen’s community in the 17th Century before evolving into vibrant, hectic area patronised by locals and tourists.

It is roughly divided into two parts, with the more upmarket retail zone – the original Lanes – housing antiques, jewellery and fashion shops, often hidden away down alleys or walkways.

It is a browser’s paradise. If, for example, you were looking for a United States Civil War Colt Army revolver and holster, and had £2,350 to spare, you would undoubtedly find it here.

Bizarrely, there is also an enclave boasting at least three specialist chocolate shops for the dedicated chocoholic.

The adjoining North Laine is grungier with a host of second hand bookshops, used vinyl, CD and DVD emporiums, and a variety of antique-cum-junk stores.

I was thrilled to purchase a hideous concrete gargoyle thing – complete with wings and protruding tongue – which now squats proudly in our back garden!

The De Vere Grand, 97-99 Kings Road, Brighton, East Sussex, BN1 2FW. Tel: 01273 224300; Fax: 01273 224321; www.grandbrighton.co.uk