WITH schools closing because of the snow and the threat of more wintery blizzards to come, we might have appeared a little foolhardy to be heading off into the countryside.

But with the promise of dinner at the Michelin-starred Hare Restaurant, it was well worth the risk of ending up stuck in a snowdrift.

We were dining at the invitation of owners Paul Whitford and Helen Windridge.

The Adver usually ensures its restaurant reviews are carried out incognito but with a Michelin starred establishment you can be pretty certain that quality will be consistent whoever you are - after all, the restaurant never knows when an inspector from the prestigious organisation might pay a call, let alone the local paper.

It was lovely in the snowy weather to arrive to a warm welcome at the smart but comfortable former18th century coaching inn.

We sat in large squishy leather sofas and chatted with our hosts before choosing one of the three dining areas. We chose the one with a roaring log fire - although the red-walled area with a huge mirror and an alcove table where several marriage proposals have been made came a close second.

Paul and Helen explained that although The Hare was popular as a "special occasion" restaurant they wanted to make it affordable for regular dining out.

To that end they have introduced a menu du jour available Tuesday to Friday evenings, 7pm to 9.30pm, for three courses with coffee and petit fours at £35 - a real snip when you're talking Michelin standard.

After dithering over where to sit, I decided to let head chef Tristan Mason, formerly at the Mirabelle with Marco Pierre White and The Greenhouse in Mayfair, to choose my dishes. After all, he is the expert.

I started with saddle of rabbit and perigord truffle with pink fur potato (thankfully not furry!) and parsley root puree, then went on to halibut and frogs legs with rosemary risotto balls and tomato cassonade.

It was all expertly prepared with a great mix of flavours which blended perfectly together.

My friend was equally happy with his skate wing and pork belly starter and mutton and lamb main course. We rounded off with a good cheeseboard and a fabulously light souffle.

The restaurant sources the best produce which is currently in season. Local meat, fruit, vegetables are used and every evening there is a delivery of fish caught fresh that day from Cornwall.

With the skills of Tristan and his team it all adds up to a memorable dining experience.

It was a lovely evening and, as for the weather, we didn't get snowed in . . . which, all in all, was rather a shame!

The Hare Restaurant, Lambourne Woodlands, Berks

Tel 01488 71386 www.theharerestaurant.co.uk

Tuesday to Saturday lunch noon to 2pm, dinner 7pm to 9pm; Sunday lunch noon to 2. 30pm. Closed Sunday night and Monday.

Menu du jour Tuesday to Friday evenings, £35 for three courses with coffee and petit fours at £35; dinner a la carte Tuesday to Saturday two courses £34, three courses £43; tasting menu seven courses, coffee and petits fours £65; lunch two courses £19, three courses £25. Booking is advisable.

Directions: from M4 Junction 14 take the A338 towards Wantage for quarter of a mile, take the first left B4000 towards Lambourn, after three miles the restaurant is on your left.