Doing it our way

HELEN Browning and Tim Finney aren't a couple to do things by halves.

When Helen, who took over Eastbrook Farm from her father in 1986, was told you couldn't raise pigs organically, she went ahead and did it anyway and became a pioneer in the field, launching a national brand of meat sold through Sainsbury's and Tesco along with a home delivery service.

When she and Tim, her partner and managing director of her Eastbrook food and drink businesses, were disappointed by the standard of food they got at outside events they started their own catering service - The Flying Pig. It's now a regular at events like Royal Ascot, Lords and Goodwood.

And when they wanted their local to be the best around, they took over The Royal Oak in Bishopstone, just outside Swindon.

"Our passion for putting interesting food into people's mouths is what has led us to have a go at the pub and event businesses," said Tim, a former journalist, who was editor of Radio 4 and 5 Live's farming and environmental programmes.

The couple's latest ventures are the pub and launching Bishopstone's first farmers' market.

At the Arkell's pub in Cues Lane, which dates back to the 1600s and which they took over last November, they have set about serving up a menu which should satisfy the fussiest foodie.

Chef Paul Burton, commercial manager Luke McKay, and Tim have come up with a menu which has strong historical ties to what people in Wiltshire would have traditionally eaten.

"You won't find a seared swordfish steak on our menu," said Luke.

What you will find - along with the organic meats for which Eastbrook is famed - is fish from British waters, some preserved by smoking or salting, which would have been eaten by locals hundreds of years ago.

You may also find parts of animal you wouldn't usually find on your plate, as the pub aims to preserve traditional dishes. It's gone down well so far, with things like Bath Chaps (pig's cheeks) selling well.

"Everything is sourced locally and organically," said Luke, a real enthusiast of good food, cooked simply but well.

"We are planning to butcher and hang all of our meat on site, while fish will be sustainable and spanking fresh from British waters or smoked by experts in Cornwall.

"Vegetables come from local organic producers and herbs from our own herb garden."

Even the pork scratchings are home-made, along with the elderflower cordial.

And the rabbit on the lunch menu may well have arrived just that morning over the shoulders of a local farmer.

"It's the destination of choice for the discerning foodie," said Luke, who admits to being one himself.

But the pub aims to do more than good food and drink.

"The pub should be at the heart of the village community," said Tim, who encourages local groups to use its facilities.

As part of that aim the Farmers' Market has been launched at the pub.

"We are hoping to make it a regular Royal Oak event,'' said Tim.

There are no firm plans yet, but it's hoped it will happen weekly from autumn onwards.

"Which means lots of old baler twine and dirty Land-Rovers . . . oh, and less food miles, less packaging and fresher food," he added.

From just two little piggies...

Helen Browning started her pioneering pig herd in 1987 with just two British Saddleback gilts.

This has grown to around 200 sows, 13 boars and 500 piglets on the farm at any one time.

The 1,337 acre mixed farm (equivalent to 1,300 football pitches) is owned by the Church of England and has been leased by the Browning family since 1952.

Its enterprises include pigs, dairy and beef cattle, veal calves, sheep, plus cereal crops and pulses.

All livestock are free ranging. Pigs live in family groups and are fed on an organic diet supplemented with a natural menu of grubs, worms and soil.

The organic milk from Helen's dairy herd is used in cheeses and yoghurts via the Organic Milk Co-op.

Helen is the Soil Association's food and farming director and chairwoman of the Animal Health and Welfare Implementation Group. She was awarded an OBE in 1998 for services to organic farming.