The last time I ventured into a Pizza Express was nearly ten years ago when I left with the impression that I could enjoy a pizza at home for a fraction of the price. However, times have changed, and my thrifty student mentality has faded.

Thinking Devizes would be sleepy on a Thursday night, we were surprised to find Pizza Express buzzing.

The very modern feel is combined with original features of the old Granada building, such as beams, and complimentary artwork, such as canal barges. The building is impressive, from the dining area, to the kitchen where the chefs can be seen working, to the patio and opulent toilets.

Would the food match up to the first impressions though? We were not surprised to see mainly pizzas on the menu. There were also a multitude of decent sounding salads, as well as a handful of pasta dishes.

We tried Ramiro al Forno for starter (nicknamed the bull's horn), a succulently roasted red pepper stuffed with mozzarella and goat's cheese and drizzled with spinach and balsamic syrup, and Bruschetta del Sole, baked dough with tomatoes, basil, olive oil, peppers and pesto. The bruschetta was a triumph of simple food made from fresh ingredients.

Our pizzas were the American pepperoni, which was perfectly adequate, and a Romana Pollo Pancetta, which had a wafer thin base, but was crammed with chicken and red and yellow peppers and a sauce made from peppers.

It was so big it didn't fit on the plate, but I felt it was just a little too bland for me.

For pudding we squeezed in an enormous portion of chocolate fudge cake and tiramisu at just over £4 each.

For a feel-good dining out experience in Devizes, Pizza Express is definitely recommended. Of course the thrifty could save themselves the £45 cost by dining at home, but it just wouldn't be the same.

Alison Grover