A NIGHT out at Colleys is a bit like a night at the theatre - it’s all about putting on a show.

From the ceremonious welcome and dramatic disrobing of coats to the enthusiastic display of dishes to come, every act of the evening is played for maximum effect.

And like all good performances, the night ends with a grand finale - in this case, a grand parade of Colleys’ famous puddings and the chance to sample each and every one.

It was my husband’s birthday and we decided to make the most of the current 15 per cent discount deal (see panel, right), arriving just in time for the 7.30pm sitting. At Colleys everyone is served at the same time, adding to the sense of occasion, and were seated with the 20 or so other diners - not a bad turn out for Tuesday night.

I’m not sure if the staff are briefed to ham things up a bit, but they are wonderfully am-dram all the same. The delightful restaurant manager - a portly chap in his 50s, who wouldn’t have been out of place in an Agatha Christie play - regaled us with the procedure for the evening and led us through the wine list. And then the show really began.

There are only three starters but they cover all tastes, with a duck terrine, a fish dish and a baked gorgonzola to pick from. I chose the crispy salmon with roast tomatoes, pea shoots and bacon, which proved a light and interesting start. That was just as well, as soon a large tureen of white onion soup was placed on our table with a flourish. Flakes of tuna added an unexpected twist, but all four of us agreed it worked well and, while we women ‘saved ourselves’ for what was to come, the men had no such reserve and finished off the lot.

The main course is where the Colleys showmanship truly comes into play. All four dishes are brandished about the room to entice the diners, and described by the waiting staff in poetic terms. Between the four of us, we managed to order one of each - the rump of lamb with grape mustard mash; the breast of chicken with spinach, feta and butter beans; the seabass fillet with a lentil and basil puree; and the shitake mushroom spring roll with coriander-baked omelette.

Mine was the latter and was very strongly flavoured, perhaps a little too strongly in the case of the omelette.

Next time, I would go for the lamb with its pretty pink potatoes, although as the menu changes fortnightly I’ve probably missed my chance.

Throughout the evening, the jolly restaurant manager kept reminding us to leave room for the puds and, once all seven of them had been paraded before us, I wished I had. You can have as many as you like - all seven if you want - but there can’t be many people who manage more than one or two.

I went for an apple and caramel creme brulee, with every intention of syrup sponge and custard to follow. Alas, it was not to be, but I did manage a small mouthful of my husband’s. Delicious.

The final act was coffee and truffles, and then all too soon the spectacle was over.

Even at full price, this would have been a good deal - £25 for a full evening of entertainment - but at the special price of £21.21, it was fantastic value for money.

I hope to take my seat again soon for a repeat performance.