WE were warmly greeted by all the staff when we arrived at this lakeside restaurant, which was transported from China to Swindon 15 years ago.

Their attentiveness continued throughout our meal with little gestures like pouring my tea and getting me a fresh pot unbidden and drawing the curtains when the sun shone in through the window. Chinese dragons and red globes hung from the ceiling in preparation for Chinese New Year.

The menu has plenty of old favourites like sweet and sour pork and aromatic duck and pancakes but unusual dishes too like sea spice chicken, baked sea bass and whole steamed lobster.

My personal favourite and benchmark starter is deep fried squid with salt and chilli (£4.80), which came light and crispy and was one of the best I have had. My lunch companion, Sue, tried the grilled Shanghai dumplings (£4.80) which were also light and came with a delicious fresh ginger sauce.

From the sizzling dishes section I chose capital fillet of beef (£9.50) which was tender, in a sweet and sour sauce and had plain noodles with beansprouts on the side (£3.50). There were enough noodles to feed a small army and they were not too greasy as they can be sometimes. Sue enjoyed her shredded chilli beef (£7) and her special fried rice (£4.80) with prawns and barbecue roast pork.

Our bowls were warmed and placed on the candle-powered hotplate at our table just to make sure they stayed that way until the food arrived a couple of moments later.

It was relaxing to sit and look out on the ducks and swans on Peatmoor Lagoon. The restaurant itself is spacious with plenty of room between tables.

My China tea was great value at £1 and that gives you an endless supply. We were very impressed with the service and didn't begrudge the 10 per cent service charge automatically added to the bill.

Next Friday the Pagoda Palace is celebrating the New Year with a special dinner at £29 per person which includes entertainment and 10 dishes plus fortune cookies and coffee. It is already 90 per cent booked up.

CATHERINE TURNBULL PAGODA PALACE Pepperbox Hill, Peatmoor 01793 877888 Open noon-11pm every day Smoking in the bar area only