IN these challenging economic times, any country pub which finds itself fully booked on a Thursday night is a lucky one indeed.

But at the Horse & Groom in Charlton, I reckon the busy order book owes less to luck and more to exceptional customer service and attention to detail, the like of which is often forgotten in these days of budget cuts.

I only mentioned in passing when I booked that it was my husband’s birthday, yet the fact was obviously noted. As we debated whether to have a look at the dessert menu, out came a chocolate birthday cake for two, complete with candles, although thankfully not accompanied by the birthday song.

I must point out that they did know I was visiting from the paper, so I can’t promise every customer would get the same, but what a brilliant touch.

Certainly, none of the other diners in the traditional beamed pub – the middle-aged lovebirds on a second or third date, the trio of gossiping girlfriends meeting for a catch-up, the large party of well-dressed pensioners on a night out – seemed to have cause for complaint either as plate after plate of excellent food arrived from the kitchen.

Manager Emma Dall has obviously decided that sending your customers home smiling is a great sales strategy. Is it any surprise, then, that Thursday nights are full?

We’d been to the Horse & Groom once before and loved it, so we were looking forward to more of the same. The food isn’t too fancy and it isn’t outrageously priced. The pub’s website talks of “imaginative, modern British a la carte dishes” but you can also get a burger if you want it, or ham, egg and chips.

The focus is on locally-sourced produce, so the beef comes from Jesse Smith’s in Cirencester and the pork belly and bacon comes from Bromham, near Chippenham. In fact almost all of the ingredients are said to come from within 40 miles of the pub – a pretty good advert for keeping things local.

As it was a birthday treat (okay, not mine, but what the heck?), I began with pan-fried sea scallops with black pudding (£8.95 as a starter or £17.50 as a main). They were soft and juicy and mouth-watering alongside the salty pancetta.

My husband chose wood pigeon with bacon, onions and red wine jus (£7.50). Pigeon is one of his favourites and he loved this variation, especially in the rich, sticky sauce.

For mains, I went traditional with the 8oz lamb rump and garlic mash (£19.95). While the meat was pink and juicy, the star of the plate was the fluffy, fragrant mash, perfectly teamed with my favourite vegetable, broad beans. Now that’s my kind of food.

My husband was game for the pheasant with fondant potato, with cabbage and bacon and a juniper berry sauce (£16.95). It wasn’t too dissimilar to his starter but he’s a man who likes what he likes. There were no complaints and no problems clearing the plate.

Had we not been delivered our little chocolate surprise, we could have chosen from desserts such as orange and cinnamon pannacotta or bread and butter pudding with creme anglaise (both £5.95). I also know from our previous visit that the cheese board is an excellent choice, with Devon Blue and Bath Brie among the selection for £7.50.

As it was, we had more than enough cake to keep us happy, and enough to take home for the children and babysitter too.

Big smiles on faces all around.